By Jerry R. Spumberg ,
The DIY Coach
In this article, I will cover materials that are used for making counter tops such as Quartz, Tile, Solid Surface, Bucher Block and Wood, Concrete, and Stainless Steel. There is even a product called Richlite that is made from paper from certified managed forests and contains a petroleum-based resin that some consider a greener product of which I have never experienced. What is green and what is not is a subject for a totally different article. Perhaps what could be true green is to salvage used countertop materials from a discarded kitchen and incorporate them into a new kitchen. This article, along with “Part 1″, should give you a good place to start your research for deciding what the best materials are for you to use for your kitchen countertops and similar applications in your next project.
Richlite
Having not used this product, I can only tell you what I have read and seen. It may be worth your time to investigate it because of its uniqueness. It comes in multiple colors, sizes, and thicknesses that can be used with any style of decor. Richlite is made of paper that comes from managed forests of North America. The paper is treated with resin, pressed, and baked to create the solid sheets that are used for countertops. As with some other materials, there is the potential for some staining from things like red wine, juices, and mustard when left in contact for extended periods. For care instructions, Google the manufactures website. The product is harder than wood but similar to Solid Surfaces. It can be scratched or gouged and so the use of a separate cutting surface is highly recommended. However, the color is through the entire material and most cuts, nicks, and scratches may be repairable by following the manufacturer’s manual.
This material must be tough because it is used in outdoor skate parks as a ramp surface. It is heat resistant up until 350 degrees F so you do not have to worry about its proximity to a stove, but a hot pad or trivet should be used underneath hot pots and trays. If you have experience with this product, I would like to hear from you.
Quartz
Quartz, which is marketed under quite a few brand names, is really a composite of several materials. It is produced by binding stone chips (typically quartz) to powders and resins. In some cases, other minerals are added to the recipe. It starts at a more expensive price than granite (about $50 per sq. ft.), but tops out at about $100 per sq. ft. For a heavily used kitchen, this may be the best material because it is stain and heat resistant, does not require sealing, and is one of the most scratch resistant.
From a decorating standpoint, it comes in many colors and can pass for natural stone. If you use complex profiles on the edges and corners be careful because they are more likely to chip then rounded edges. In my own eyes, these countertops appear more uniform than natural stone. Because I personally enjoy the diversity of natural stone and each countertop being unique and different like works of art, I prefer Granite. However, if uniformity is important to you then Composite Quartz counters and you may be perfect together.
Stainless Steel
For that commercial or ultra modern utility look, there may be nothing else that can make a statement “that serious cooks work here”. It can be used with other countertop materials to represent a strong contrast between different dedicated work areas as well as a solo material. It works especially well with a commercial stove and oven unit or the pots, pans, utensils, and dish cleaning area. In areas where water is in high use, sinks, drain boards and backsplash can be integrated into one piece containing the water and directing it down the drain.
A word of caution: you want a stainless steel with a high nickel and chromium content, otherwise it will not resist corrosion or stains well. You want it fabricated from heavy gauge (thickness) sheets so that it doesn’t dent easily. A satin or brushed finish is best for most since it will hide scratches. What you may like most about good stainless steel is its capability to handle hot pots and trays right out of the oven or off the stove. What you may not like is that stainless can be noisy and will show fingerprints and smudges.
Wood
Wood is one of the oldest materials used for kitchen countertops. Even in today’s world where we have so many choices, it still has its place as I think you will agree. From a visual perspective, it is warm and conveys a sense of natural beauty. It can fit into a Traditional or Country Kitchen, but be equally at home in an Oriental, Danish Modern, or Rustic Cabin decor. Some cooks even love it more when it becomes stained or scratched in the same way they love well-used antiques.
Each species of wood has different characteristics and there isn’t enough time in this article to discuss all the woods available. All wood expands and contracts from temperature and the moisture/humidity in the air even when sealed with a sealer. This is different between species and the way the wood is cut from the log. If exposed to excessive water, whether directly from spills or indirectly as moisture in the the air, it may warp and/or cup. When water gets under wood finishes it will cause them to peel. If you want to keep them looking new you will have to sand and refinishes’ them about every year or so. Those areas that are used for cutting or chopping should be finished with a nontoxic mineral oil. When burns or stains occur, you may be able to sand them away, but remember wood is not very heat resistant and should be protected from hot pots and trays. Perhaps one of the reasons wood is loved most (besides it’s good looks) is the way it treats the edges of fine cutlery by helping to avoid dulling and frequent sharpening for the serious chief.
Woods that have the qualities needed in boats and workbenches such as Teak, Eastern Sugar Maple, and German Beech for specific tasks make great tops for kitchens for similar reasons. Butcher block, which is pieces of wood glued together, are made in two ways. In the first, the end-grain faces up and is best for a chopping. The second is flat grain (face grain), which has greater aesthetic appeal and makes a fine workbench. Some of the other woods that are used are Cherry, Walnut, and Appalachian Oak. When picking a wood it is important to understand its traits. If I was interested in a hard and scratch-resistant surface that would not tend to warp or wear unevenly, I would pick Hard Maple first followed by German Beech. This is the same material that has been used for hundreds of years in building workbenches of all types for use by wood shops, butchers, and home and commercial kitchens. There are other choices of exotic or South American species that may work well once made, but present more difficult problems during manufacturing that make their cost greater or have properties that cause their color to change which can detract from their original appearance.
Solid- Surface Materials
These materials are synthetics made from polyester or acrylic. They come in many colors and shades and can be made to imitate natural stone or quartz countertops. One of the newest versions of this material is translucent and can produce a stunning effect when illuminated. The color is uniform thru the product’s thickness, making it possible to carve, inlay, mold, and texture it by sandblasting. The material comes in thicknesses from ½ ” to ¼” thick. This material is applied to a plywood subsurface similar to the way plastic laminate is used to make counter tops. When an edge treatment is desired, the ½ ” thick material is used. The use of molded sinks and backsplashes can be integrated into a seamless counter.
The material is impervious to water and light sanding can repair slight dents and abrasions. If it has deep cuts or burns into it, you should call a professional. He will sometimes use the waste pieces (ask for them) from when your top was made in repairing it. Very often, a few left over pieces are given to you from the fabricator to use as cutting boards. I have this countertop in my own home and find it easy to clean with a mild non-abrasive dish soap and sponge. We use wood cutting surfaces and heat mats when needed and they still look great more than fifteen years from when they were installed. You should find the price to be in the $35 to $100 range with an additional cost for a molded sink. If cost is important and an edge detail not consider, the ¼” material for its cost savings while considering the type of use it will need to endure.
Tile
Tile comes in several types that are suitable for countertops that include ceramic, porcelain, and natural stone. In order for it to last in a countertop application, it must be installed properly in the best manner possible. Installing tile for countertops is not a subject that I will go into since there is plenty of information available in books and from the manufacturers. In recent years, the manufacturers of tile have developed matching edge pieces as part of a tile line made especially for countertops.
My favorite tile for countertops is porcelains because of its hardness, rugged wear, resistant nature, color thru, and available textures. All tile is highly resistant to heat. Ceramic tile is more likely to chip then the others and grout can stain even when sealed. Some grouts are more stain resistant, including one in a two-part epoxy formula that performs well against staining that you should investigate. Stone tile performs in the same way that all stone countertops perform and can be found with matching edges for counter top use in limited selections. The advantage with stone tile is it will be much less expensive then solid stone countertops.
The installation of tile countertops can be done by an experienced DIYer. If you undertake this, I suggest the following:
- Know what you are doing and understand how to lay it out for your particular tile choice.
- Build the right sub counter using plywood and cement board.
- Make sure your base cabinets can handle the weight and are set properly.
- The sub counter should be level with the top on the same horizontal plane.
- Keep grout lines to the minimum recommended by the manufacturer.
- Use the right materials of high quality.
Concrete
Concrete countertops are often seen in a modern or utilitarian settings. The few times I was involved with this material, the concrete was poured into a form that was built on top of the base cabinets. This was done by an experienced skilled craftsman that was very knowledgeable about concrete in this application. I am told that it can also be bought prefabricated, but have no experience with the product in this form. From a decor perspective, concrete can be made from a choice of many colors, include inlaid designs using many different materials, and have shapes such as shells or drain boards molded in to it. It can also be textured to meet a clients wishes.
Concrete is heavy and you must make sure that your base cabinets are strong enough to support it. Its durability is dependent on the knowledge and skill of the person who builds the countertop and the sealers used. If the person who builds it is not qualified or the conditions of support (including the stiffness of the floor) are not just right, it can develop cracks. If stain is used to color the concrete, you may find that in the future they need to be reapplied. What you use for a sealer will be dependent on the use of the countertop. I know of some DIYers who have attempted to make and install their own concrete tops with some success and others who were not. I believe to do this right, the learning curve is long and the work time consuming for the inexperienced. The cost is between $85 to $125 per sq. ft. to have this done for you. My personal opinion is to look at other materials within the same price range or less unless you just love the concrete look over everything else.
The guidelines in the second paragraph of “The most important things to remember” of my Part-1 article should help you through your decision making process. The article “How remodels and Builders Buy Right” at www.remodelingreports.com (which is linked to this blog just above the article list) is an easy to print or down load form (also appears as a past blog article) will aid you in your purchase. In my opinion, it is always best to deal with the fabricator (manufacturer) of the countertop rather than a third party such as a retailer or a big box home improvement store. Not only should you get a better price, you will get to see their operation and be able to evaluate the business compared to others. Along with references from past customers and research from consumer rating services, you should be able to pick the right supplier. If you are replacing old tops, I suggest you hire a master carpenter who is qualified in cabinet installations to evaluate the base cabinets and their suitability for the installation of the counter top of your choice. He will consider the strength of the base cabinets to hold the weight of the new top as well as the cabinets being level and providing a uniformly flat support surface.
May the Coach be with you,
Coach Jerry
