[A must read article about safety for every homeowner living in a home built before 1978.]

If you are a DIYer working on your own home built before 1978, there may be health risks and a high exposure to legal liability issues due to lead paint.  Before starting any project,  you should be aware of the United States EPA Lead Safe Practices Regulations.  Because lead paint can be an extreme health hazard, these regulations put together a few years ago are now being enforced either by the EPA of the States, the Feds, or both!

 This is not to dissuade you from tackling projects!   It is quite the opposite!   It is to inform you that there is knowledge that you need to acquire to use the required practices and to develop some learnable skills. This is no more difficult to do than any other learning and skills you have developed and less difficult than most.  As a former builder and now a hands-on remodeling coach, I have been using similar remediation methods for years and am now engaged in educating my clients to follow these too.

 The object of this article is to give you the direction to start your own self-educational program. In addition, I want to share with you my builder’s  layman’s legal position [I am not a lawyer] that I believe there is the strong  possibility of exposure to liability actions if you don’t follow the regulations, even if you fall into the exempt category.  At the end of the article, I will let you know how to get a lot of great and free information on-line from the EPA that includes their “Initial Training Course Student Manual”; I will also give my recommendations for a low cost set of training CDs that I have reviewed and am using to train my clients to work safely.

 My recommendations are my own opinions.  I receive no financial benefit for them or any item I recommend to purchase.  I advise that before you take on any project, you fully research this subject and develop your own conclusions of what is best for you. This article’s sole purpose is to make you aware of the subject for your investigation and not to advise you in any manner on how to proceed or what to buy.

 You will learn as you investigate this subject about the need to rent or buy a Hepa vacuum that meets the Federal EPA’s requirements for lead safety, the equipment needed for your particular project, test kits that the EPA has approved for testing to determine whether you have a problem or not, the protective clothing and dust masks to protect yourself and those that may be working with you, and the proper procedures.  You will also be exposed to the EPA’s required record keeping for contractors. Much of this information in detail will be found in the resources found at the end of this article. Even though you as the home owner are exempt under the regulations, after your investigation,  you may conclude to abide by them as I am recommending to my clients.    

 Lead that enters the body when it is swallowed or inhaled in the form of paint chips, particles, or dust is extremely toxic and can cause many types of illnesses. This is commonly known as lead poisoning.  In children under the age of six, it can affect the brain and the developing nervous system that can result in reduced I.Q., learning disabilities, and behavioral  problems. Even children who appear healthy can have dangerous levels of lead in their body that lead to a numerous list of illnesses that we don’t have space to cover. Lead is  harmful to adults as well.  Even at low levels, it can lead to high blood pressure,  affect our bones and organs in both males and females and the fetus of pregnant women. Simply put, this is one bad heavy metal when it gets into our bodies.  (Interesting side note: There are some archeological studies that conclude that part of the reason for the fall of the “Roman Empire” was due to the use of lead pipes in their water supply and the taking of lead powder for medicinal purposes that caused the population a variety of illnesses, including birth defects and a lowering of intellect. )

 In normal hand to mouth activates such as eating, playing, or disturbing dust by normal movements [such as cleaning or vacuuming], if there is exposed lead paint within the environment, there is a good possibility of people having lead within their bodies.  When performing renovation activities such as sawing, sanding, brushing, burning, and demolition that disturb lead based painted surfaces, there is a strong risk to lead exposure if you haven’t taken the proper precautions.  If you had a packet of lead dust the size of a single packet of sugar, the amount contained can contaminate many rooms in a home with a enough lead to cause serious illness.     

 These regulations assume that all houses built before 1978 contain lead-based paint.  It is your responsibility to test, prove, and document its absence if you are disturbing 6 square feet within the interior of the house or 20 square feet of the exterior. The rules also require it for any activity that involves window replacement, demolition, or activities involving prohibitive practices within these smaller areas as well.

 After I posted my last article “ The New Regulatory Climate for D.I.Y. Home Remodelers “ the questions started coming in. To sum up the three most frequently asked questions:

• Do the practices required add on a lot of cost if I just hire a contractor to the job?  The simple answer, Yes. 
• Can homeowners learn how to follow these practices and can they do this work themselves? Answer, yes.
• Do the regulations apply to a homeowner  working on his own house?  The answer is no, but here is the catch and it’s a big one.

First, there is the health risk to themselves, family, children, friends, future buyer, and anyone that comes in the house during and after the work, without following the mandated practices.

Second, even when a trade contractor follows the prescribed practices, they must keep a record thru documentation about what and how the job was done. They are also required to retain those records for a period of time in their possession.  Keep in mind, even when you do a great job, in this litigious society, anyone can file a suit against anyone for lead poisoning that has been near or in the house. 

Even though under “The RRP Rule: Exclusions” [page 2-3 of their model training guide] it lists “Renovations performed by homeowners in their own homes”, here’s the rub as summed up with a discussion with a legal eagle. If you haven’t followed the prescribe methods and documented them in accordance to the rules and someone was in your house during or after, came to the front door or worked outside or bought your house and they sued you having found traces of lead in their body, the Eagle could have a tough time defending you.

 Health concerns over lead paint and the possibility of generating lead dust and contamination during painting and remodeling of projects in homes built before 1978 have created the enactment of strict methods of remediation and detailed record keeping by the Federal EPA and State governments. Compliance is not an option any longer for contractors, as it was when Congress passed the legislation just a short time ago, where under certain conditions a homeowner could opt out of these costly regulations. The EPA has recently removed this option.  Whether this was legal or not will eventually be settled in the courts.

 Hopefully at this point I have your attention. When contractors do work for you, they add on a significant cost to cover overhead and profit. If you are a reader of www.remodelingreports.com  or www.thediycoachusa.com,  you already understand what the costs are and why. The methods prescribed are tedious and time consuming, but only require a moderate level of skill and knowledge which are easily mastered.  A knowledgeable person who is certified in the requirements can cut down your learning curve substantially as your confidence and competence grows.  The cost savings can be dramatic in this area and make projects financially feasible for DIYers, that may not be the case when using contractors.

 Without going into a lot of detail, I will list below many of the subjects within “Lead Safety for Renovation, Repairs and Painting” that you will want to learn about. These subjects are the “Course Agenda” within the EPA’s “Certified Renovators Initial Training Course Student Manual:

1. Why Should I Be Concerned About Lead Paint
2. The Regulations
3. What To Do Before Beginning Work
4. Containing Dust During The Work
5. During the work [methods and practices]
6. Cleaning Activities and Checking Your Work
7. Recordkeeping
8. Training Non-certified Workers

Before beginning to read the manual, you should go to Appendix 3 (“Renovate Right:  Important Lead Hazard Information for Families, Child Care Provider and Schools”) and Appendix  5  (“Steps to Lead Safe Renovation, Repair and Painting”). These are copies within the training manual of the EPA Pamphlets that contractors are required to give to clients. They are  a great introduction to the subject as well as a motivator to get you to learn more.

The manual can be found by going to http://www.epa.gov/lead/pubs/epahudrrmodel.htm

I’m sure you understand the saying that a picture can be worth a 1000 words.  In this case, a good CD that teaches about the subject and visually demonstrates the methods by an expert, can be worth a whole text book plus it cuts the learning curve significantly.  I’ve been recommending to my clients a video titled “Lead Safe Work Practices For Employees of EPA Certified Renovators” with Francis Xavier “Rich” Finigan.  I purchased my copy recently thru http://www.check4lead.com for about $30.  It also contains an additional CD of forms to document your work. I feel that this was money well spent.  I use it to train my people, saving us both a lot of time.  It may also be available thru other websites.

 If you have an old house and plan to take on many projects over a period of time, you many consider taking the certification course similar to the one I took.  In New Jersey, it is often available through a state program at community or public colleges or private certified schools. It takes no more than a few days and normally runs a few hundred dollars. Not a bad way to go.

Since homeowners working on their own project are exempt under the regulations, and if you still agree with the reasoning of this article, there is another way to go. That way is to have a lead certified remodeling coach guide you through the How To until you reach a point that you are confident with your understanding and the methods.  I teach this in the prescribed method that I would  teach my own non-certified renovation workers. In addition, he should show you what he does in documenting the work. This can all be done right on the projects site.

Once you understand what’s involved, I think you will agree that ethical contractors who abide by the regulations, because of all of the health concerns for everyone, must add on significant cost when lead based paint is present. However, if you are physically able home owners with only rudimentary skills, your investigation may also conclude that you can handle this work along with your next project with some guidance from a knowledgeable person and save a bundle of dollars.

Wishing You Success On Your Next Project! – Coach Jerry

Remodeling your home, even with professional guidance, is now more complicated. Building codes involving the structure have gotten stricter. They are structurally more demanding and now relate more than ever to specific local conditions of weather, soil bearing and seismographic activity .

Health concerns over lead paint and the possibility of generating lead dust and contamination during painting and remodeling of projects in homes built before 1978 have created the enactment of strict  methods of remediation and detailed record keeping by the Federal EPA and State Governments. Compliance is not an option any longer, as it was when Congress passed the legislation just a short time ago, where under certain conditions a homeowner could opt out of these costly regulations. The EPA has recently removed this option. Whether this was legal or not will eventually be settled in the courts.

And finally, among what I consider the big three, is a new energy code with two methods of compliance. The Prescriptive Approach [pre-specified] or the Trade Off Approach that requires the use of ResCheck Software to make sure the specifications chosen meet the overall performance requirements of your climate zone.  In October of 2010, about 80% of state and local code officials adopted the 2012 International Energy Conservation Code [IECC]. It was estimated that this code would have an expected energy savings of 30% over the 2006 code.

As building Code officials vote to replace the 2006 International Residential Building  Code’s energy chapter with the newer IECC code, what will it mean for the DIYer?  

The new code improves air tightness, increases window, exterior door and skylight efficiencies,  ups the required “R” [insulation] ratings while it saves electricity for lighting and energy losses from HVAC systems, hot water storage and piping. Each of the eight climate zones have their own requirements.  The good side of this, is that it makes sense for the long run for the environment and will save money in future energy costs for the owner. It requires the use of better methods, materials and products, all of which are more costly. The selection of the many choices in each of the categories  just mentioned and deciding what is best for you is now more time-consuming and difficult as you go through the process of setting objectives and making decisions to plan your project.  As part of the construction permitting process, these decisions are required to be made before construction begins and are specified with the submitted plans in order to receive a permit to build. Therefore, whereas in the past you could make many of these decisions throughout the building process, now you have to decide almost everything before the first shovel goes in the ground.  The DIYer will need an impartial professional, who is driven by their clients best interests, to help them develop a cost-effective project that meets the requirements of the codes and help them through the permitting process. The down side of this is that the upgrading will cost more up front.

EPA’s Lead Safety For  Renovations, Repair and Painting as it applies to one family homes as of April 22, 2010.

It’s important for you to know that if you live in a pre-1978 built home or child occupied facilities, the contractors  you hire for remodeling and painting must be certified and use lead-safe work practices during  renovations. The exclusions to this are:  (1) interior work disturbing less than 6 square feet, (2) exterior work disturbing less than 20 square feet with the exception of window replacement, demolition or prohibited practices.

 Renovations performed by homeowners in their own homes are excluded. However, this is a slippery slope.  Why?  The required practices are for the protection of your family’s health and the guests that visit your home. It is to protect the environment as a whole, but even more important to you is that part of the interior of your home and the outside area that is adjacent to it. Proper clean up and practices requires specialized tools and vacuum cleaners that are expensive and may not be worthwhile to own and unavailable to rent. 

 In addition, when you go to sell your home, a buyer will question and may even want to perform tests to confirm the home and the grounds have no contaminants. For all these reasons and many more, I suggest you hire someone with the knowledge and credentials to follow the practices or go to school yourself for certification if you decide to do it yourself.

For more information, go to EPA’s website and download the “Renovate Right” pamphlet.

In Conclusion:

When you add the new energy code, lead renovation practices in pre-1978 homes and the new structural requirements, the coordination of projects from conception to completion are now more important than ever. The regulative authorities have added requirements that are adding additional upfront costs to projects compared to projects built just a short time ago. Builders, general contractors and trade contractors are now considering the time and cost impact all this adds on in addition to their overhead, sales commissions and profit when pricing a job.

To sum it up, the professionals and the state and local building officials in the industry are engaged in a learning curve as they adjust to most of this and it will be even more difficult for a DIYer with less experience to go through all we mentioned and do what’s best for themselves.

Even with the new regulatory complexities, it may still make more sense financially than ever to become the developer of your own project. If you are willing to put in some time, consider hiring a Do It Yourself Coach for your next project. Visit us at WWW.TheDIYCoachUSA.com  to learn more about planning a project or WWW.RemodelingReports.com for more specific product and construction information in article form.  It’s free to download or copy.  Good luck on your next project.

May the Coach be with you,

                                                Coach Jerry

Introduction

In late December of 2010, I spoke before a business organization in Monmouth County, New Jersey and was asked many questions about remodeling, renovating, home improvement, and the investment opportunities in residential properties. This is the continuation of the answers to those questions. The questions below were sent to me before and after my talk. Many have come up in the past as well. I did not get to answer all of them when I spoke, but they deserve being answered and I would like to share those answers with you.  I want to thank those people for raising these questions. They relate to a rather innovative method and approach for property owners for updating existing or building new homes while eliminating the overhead and profit that the traditional construction industry builds in to prices.  

12. Does a homeowner need to have a licensed plumber and electrician if he is doing his own work?

The simple answer is no in New Jersey as long as the homeowner files for a permit if the work requires it and follows the local authority’s code requirements and inspection process. There are many simple repairs that do not require either of the before mentioned, but you should check with your building department to find out if yours does.

However, there is a lot more to this question than just the legal and municipal requirements. The most important question is about your skill and knowledge level being equal to the task. What you don’t know can burn down your house; it can also injure or kill someone, and that could be you. So make sure you know your limits or seek the advice of a professional. Some professionals like me are more than happy to teach you the hands on how. A simple thing like relighting a gas hot water heater when done wrong or hanging an electric ceiling fixture can blow up in your face or end up falling on someone’s head. What you do may even kill the next purchaser of your house. Know what you are doing or hire someone that does. You will sleep better for it.

13. Do you handle obtaining the building permits for your clients?

Yes! We have three ways that we work with clients.  One of them is: A Coach will work with you doing the parts of a project you don’t have the skills, knowledge, or tools for.  This often includes being involved in projects from the conception stage thru final completion. We guide (coach) our clients through all aspects.

14. Do you receive any percentage from the sub-contractors?

No! Our contract with our clients strictly forbids us from receiving commissions, gifts, and kickbacks of any form. In the industry, this type of behavior can be determined to be criminal. It is always unethical.

15. Do you screen the customer’s subcontractors in any way?

Yes! Whether the subcontractor is the customer’s or one we recommended, there is a trades contract that we give to the owner to supersede the subcontractor’s proposal. The client can then have an attorney review it for their needs and make any changes they wish. This is given to the subcontractor to fill out the required information such as registration or license, insurances required, federal and state identification, number of years in business, and referrals past and present. I also find out who their suppliers are. Either the client or I make the calls before the client signs the agreement.

16. When is the slowest time of the year?

I use to say the winter months of January and February, but that’s no longer true. Many people have gotten smarter and realize that this is a good time for planning a project as well as investigations into products. It’s also a great time to negotiate with suppliers and subcontractors.

17. How do you sell your concept?

We don’t sell it, we explain it. We have used the KISS principle in developing the business model – Keep It Super Simple. Everything is simple to understand and transparent, just like our website. Because it is so simple, people keep looking for a catch, but there is none. The website explains what we do, why we do it, the way we do it, and how we do it.

When I meet with a new client, I remain consistent with the website and answer all of their questions. My objective is to give them the best understanding of the options they have for their project that I can. We do not push to close by having them sign a contract. Instead, we give them a sample contract to examine and digest and call them a few days later to see if they have any more questions.

Our contract, which in simple English rather than legalize, does the same thing. Its’ most important aspect is to define and develop the relationship. We allow a client to terminate us at their discretion at any time. The benefits of hiring The DIY Coach are transparency and the possible significant cost savings are self-explanatory. I make sure the client becomes aware of the level of control they have over their projects as well as the responsibility they will assume before inking the deal.  The biggest question is the client’s willingness to spend the required time commitment that they themselves set.

18. What is your process for remodeling a kitchen with the homeowner(s) involved in some of the work?

The first thing to understand is that no matter what the project is, including kitchens, The DIY Coach’s concept custom fits every aspect of the construction process to the clients.

The first step is to help the client find out what they want and how much their target budget is. The next question is for us to learn their level of participation and in what areas they want to participate in, if any. Determinations are made as to what extent their needs may or may not be for an architect, kitchen designer, and permits. We help our clients develop specifications for everything that will go into the kitchen (such as cabinets, counter tops, appliances, flooring, lighting, and plumbing) and determine what trades will be needed.

The coach then works with the client to use the same process that builders use – competitive bidding. A Request For Proposal (RFP), which contains the specifications for products or services, is offered to several vendors in each category as a solicitation of cost. The selection of the vendor is then made based on price, reputation, reliability, and a track record of a reasonable number of years in business. At this point, a budget is put together that includes a contingency cost for the unforeseen. If the budget is acceptable to the client, a schedule is developed by questioning each vendor of their time requirements. Plans and permits are then submitted to local authorities and upon approval, the project can be scheduled to begin.

19. How do you find employees and subcontractors? What qualifications do they have?

Coaches fit into two categories. The first are project coaches. These people can be either male or female, have owned their own building or remodeling business, or worked as project managers. Experience and capability is what I look for. Age has no significance. I love working with people with decades of experience (like myself) who have seen most of the mistakes and can eliminate them before they become difficult to correct.  Think of them as cloned from three of my TV favorites: Tom Silver and Norm Abrams from “This Old House” and Mike Holmes from “Holmes on Homes”. They have a strong carpentry background and are very capable in other trades. These are hands on people! The trades they don’t perform, they understand. They are excellent at coordinating vendors and developing schedules and have terrific people skills. They own their own tools and know how to use them, but more important, they know how to teach clients what they need to know without making it tedious. The most important qualification is that they love what they do and will love being a Do It Yourself Coach.

The second category is specialty trade coaches. These too have years of experience, but only in one or two trades. Examples could be a tile setter, painter/wallpaper hanger, or a finishing carpenter. In some cases they may be a trades subcontractor or a person who is partially retired who enjoys working with and teaching DIYers on a one to one (or two) basis. They meet many of the requirements mentioned above.

One of the ways I find people, subcontractors, and suppliers is networking through the many relationships that I have in the industry and the continual development of new relationships. Past clients are also a source as well as a large circle of business friends outside my industry. As the company grows and the ever-changing economy brings highly skilled and experienced craftsperson’s back into the housing industry in need of full or part time work, The DIY Coach offers a unique cooperative and non-adversarial relationship for the coaches, our subcontractors, and our clients. As coaches or subcontractors who are treated as value members of the team, they find a lot more job satisfaction than working for a large box retailer or a traditional builder. In addition, they are encouraged to fully use and share their knowledge and experience with clients and all who form the team to construct a project.

Every DIY Coach and subcontractor fills out a application form with references and I personally interview each applicant. We also use our website to attract applicants.

20. What home improvements are the best investments for resale?

This is a question that people see answered on certain TV shows all the time, as if it’s simple to answer. In my opinion (as a builder and developer with over four decades of experience), I will tell you that the answer is not simple because we are asking it from an investment prospective. To understand this you must define return on investment (ROI). I define it from a business point of view as developing greater value upon selling then spent on improvements, including the value of my time. When you spend money on your own home with money that you saved or against equity that you borrowed, it is important to gain greater value than you spend if you consider your home a financial asset. Under present tax law, if you sell your home after living in it two years or more, there is no income tax paid. If you’re an investor, you will be subject to a capital gains tax that is usually less than income tax.

The first step in making any determination has to be a realistic assessment of what the property would have to be priced at, as it is, to sell in thirty to sixty days.  This is not easy to do, even for me. I do my research about what similar houses in the same condition that are up for sale are priced at. I also want to know how many there are on the market and how many of these have sold over the last three months, six months, and a year. This is the absorption rate.  It tells me the demand in this price range and what the price should be. I then talk to several top realtors who have sold twenty or more houses in the last year and ask them for a realistic price to sell in thirty to sixty days. I then take into consideration the monthly increase or decrease percentage in the cost of housing and apply it to the amount of time the remodeling projects will take. I now have a base to judge value added for any project.

The simplest remodeling project, if the house is sound, is a good paint job. In order to paint you must know how to perform the most difficult part, which is the preparation and repair work under the areas to be painted as well as what colors most of the buying market wants.

Cleaning up the landscaping and concentrating on curb appeal will get customers into the house, but won’t sell it if the kitchen and bathrooms don’t appeal to them. How to approach this is difficult to cover in a short answer, so I won’t. I only mentioned this as a consideration. When investors buy houses that are out of date, most will lower their offers to reflect the cost of updating these areas. Again, what work you will do should depend on the input you get from professional realtors and if the project adds more dollars then you spend.

If you hire a general contractor, it is doubtful that you will get more money back than you spend. Visit our Web site www.thediycoachusa.com and click on “9 Home Improvement Facts That Can Save You A Bundle” and to the left you will find “Useful Links and Tools”. This will lead you to research studies and professional trade articles that will bear this out. However if you do it yourself with some professional guidance, you can actually make money thru remodeling. If you have an experienced family member or friend that works in the industry that can help you, that’s fine. If not, employ an expert on an hourly as-needed basis (such as The Do It Yourself Coach, LLC.) to advise and work with you to achieve your goals.

21. When a homeowner takes on a do it yourself project and finds it is too much for them to finish in the middle of the project, would you take it over as a general contractor?

No! Our main objective is to provide the client with the most cost effective method of completing his project. It is never our intention to convert our relationship to become that of a general contractor that charges overhead and profit. The greatest amount of savings for the homeowner comes from taking on the administrative role and eliminating a general contractor’s markup. Depending on what is most cost effective for the owner, we will use competitive bidding to hire subcontractors for each phase of the project the owner needs to complete or work side by side with the owner and temporary labor that we will help him hire. In some cases, the best description of us is to be known as the owners hired project manager who will also perform manual work on the project. The exception to performing the manual labor role would be if the work could be done more effective and for less cost by subcontracting out parts to individual trades.

It would be very easy for me under certain circumstances to convert a project to a general contractor’s relationship because I have previously owned and operated several building businesses. However, The guidelines and policies that have I have set for The Do It Yourself Coach, LLC would make it unethical to change the relationship because it would not be in the best interests of the homeowner.

If a owner decides to abandon a part of the project that he has planned to do (for example painting), we will step in upon the client’s direction.  We will request bids from several subcontractors to complete the remaining tasks.  This would be compared to hiring hourly works that the client pays direct, that I would work with or just supervise as needed. This would still eliminate the general contractor’s markup. The only loss of savings would be the client’s contribution of their labor.

Learn more about how to improve and add more value than you spend by exploring www.thediycoachusa.com and www.remodelingreports.com. Read the blog articles and learn some of the things that professionals won’t tell you. Link to industry studies that will tell you the return on the money you spend when hiring a General Contractor. Read articles of the margins that the industry recommends  to be built into their prices. Become informed so you can choose the direction you want to take for your next project wisely. 

 YOU TO CAN DO IT FOR YOURSELF, BUT YOU DON’T HAVE TO DO IT BY YOURSELF!

 May the Coach be with you,
 Jerry R. Spumberg

Introduction

In late December of 2010, I spoke before a business organization in Monmouth County, New Jersey and was asked many questions about remodeling, renovating, home improvement, and the investment opportunities in residential properties. The questions below were sent to me before and after my talk. Many have come up in the past as well. I did not get to answer all of them when I spoke, but they deserve being answered and I would like to share those answers with you.  I want to thank those people for raising these questions. They relate to a rather innovative method and approach for property owners for updating existing or building new homes while eliminating the overhead and profit that the traditional construction industry builds in to prices.

1. What is the biggest size project you will take on?

As of yet, we have not refused any project for being too large (or too small) in the residential or light commercial/retail category. The larger the project normally means I’m working less with tools and have a greater concentration on the construction management aspects (from conception to completion). Larger projects have larger budgets. This means that concentrating and overseeing the development of cost effective and efficient design with specifications that meet the client objectives becomes the most important criteria; that’s because of the amount of the client’s money at stake. The interdependency and balancing of the above will be reflected in the projects budget.

2. Please explain the Do-It-Yourself segment of what you do.  How involved is the homeowner?

This is a great question with a long answer that I could write a book about. Instead, I will try to summarize a few general concepts. The first of which are the requirements that a client needs to meet for our program. They must be willing to take on the administrative role or assign it to someone else other than just us. They must be willing to define their role in the project and understand the collaborative effort that our process requires. If they will become involved in actual physical tasks, they will need to commit to performing in a timely manner. Our role as a Coach is that of working with you to facilitate the parts of the project that you don’t have the skills, knowledge, or tools for.  We are more like your employee and you are the developer (our boss) of your own project. To find out more about this, explore our website and the articles on the blog about a Coach.

3. What is the minimum skill level for a Do-It-Yourselfer?

I’m assuming that this question relates to being physically active in the labor itself.  I have worked with people who have never picked up a paintbrush or hammer. Beginners are fine as long as you have patience with yourself and others and are prepared for some hard work. Skills can be taught to most people, but everyone learns at a different pace. The only requirements that are important are a willingness to learn, the time required for us to teach them, and for them to participate. The rest we know and want to share with our clients.

If the question is aimed at the business and administrative side, a little common sense, some easily learned bookkeeping skills, an eye to detail, and the desire to learn are required.

4. What are the steps in the DIY Coach Process?

The components of a successful project start with a dedication to professionally manage any project from its early conception to its completion. Develop clear and concise project objectives and goals into construction plans, specifications, and costs thru the right team to match the project. For more information, visit the planning portion of our website.  

5. Does bringing in a coach increase the price of building a home?

If you compare the cost of hiring a coach (the term as defined by my company) to using general contractor or builder, it is much less. Builders and general contractors charge a mark-up for overhead and profit plus the cost of the onsite project manager or supervisor. If it is a small company where the owner directly supervises the project, he usually builds in his time as a part of the cost. For more information please visit our web site www.thediycoachusa.com and click on “9 Home Improvement Facts That Can Save You A Bundle”. To the left are commercial trade magazine’s articles and studies under “Useful Links and Tools” that will give you an idea of what these costs are. The only cost you pay with a coach is that of a project manager on an hourly as-needed bases. You become the developer and are taught to administer your own project.

If you are not a seasoned professional in the construction industry, it is doubtful that you will purchase the various elements of the project (called the buyout) as well as an experienced person, but you can with help. A successful builder, who has become a remodeling coach, could not have become successful unless he had a reputation for honesty. A smart builder continually develops sources for labor and materials, understands how to negotiate in good faith with vendors, and has a reputation for paying his bills. After all, if you were a vendor, would you give your best prices to a person that could provided you with only one sale or  to a professional that offers the additional opportunity for future sales as well? 

 Do not be fooled by clubs that charge high membership fees, delivery charges, and service fees that offer wholesale prices. A recent nonprofit consumer magazine stated that these franchises “lack price transparency” and “You can’t return items”. They have limited showrooms of which you select products from catalogs. There are additional fees that you are responsible for, such as a six percent handling fees, shipping fees from the wholesale distributor to the local center, and additional fees to actually get your new stuff to you house.  “There is no cancelation of your membership or a refund” if you’re unhappy after you join and want to quit.

The fact is that an experienced DIY Coach who has developed business relationships with many competing vendors may even be buying from some of the same sources that these buying clubs do. With a Coach’s advice, you can buy at club’s prices or better without all the added cost.  I’ve rarely paid a building material supplier a delivery fee. My clients also have a much larger choice of vendors and products that  include some companies they personally know, companies that  previously did business with myself or The DIY Coach’s clients, and others that are constantly approaching us for business. Read other articles on our blog such as: “Part IV – What A Coach Should Be Able To Do For You.”  A DIY Coach will save you money by helping you buy right.

6. Regarding projects, when is it best to hire a builder (general contractor)?

There are many people who do not have the desire to be involved with anything more than picking selections, approving the design, and entering into a single contract. Price and return on investment are relatively unimportant. They make a down payment and stage payments until the project is finished. They want the least involvement possible. They will visit the project site more out of curiosity of how far the project has come, rather than to be involved or even participate in the selection of vendors or participating in some of the work. For these clients, where cost is not as important as the time that would be required of them to spend on administration and budget development, a reliable and capable general contractor is the best choice.  A Coach relationship is not for every client.

7. What is the biggest difference between a Do It Yourself Remodeling Coach and a General Contractor with regard to a home improvement project or an addition?

When a general contractor enters into a contract with a property owner, it is binding on all parties. In a legal sense, if a dispute arises the parties are adversaries. The general contractor feels he is entitled to the money spent for labor and materials plus his overhead and profit. The owner feels he is entitled to the project and everything that should be included in the price. Most disputes arise because of what may be unseen until the project is underway, the costs of extras or changes, and the quality of work. As you can see from that mentioned above, the two parties come from very opposite directions for the most part.  One builds and deliveries a product, the other pays money to own it.

The building or home improvement coach has a relationship with a homeowner that is quite different. The DIY Coach’s relationship is that of a trusted employee who works for the owner and becomes his own project developer on an hourly as-needed basis. This building expert can be terminated at any time at the homeowner’s discretion, with or without reason. There is no markup, only the agreed upon hourly pay that is due the coach. The coach’s objective is to achieve what is directed by his client. To learn more about what a coach should be, read our five part series about coaches on this blog or at www.remodelingreports.com.

8. I watch all those shows on house flipping……Are they realistic?

They are as realistic as they can be when they compress the time for the project in a half hour show. The viewer is often not aware of how long the project really took as well as many things you didn’t see. Be aware that many of these episodes may be years old and under different market conditions than the present. There are many professional investors who because of their knowledge of the market and remodeling can make money in any market, but there are also many amateurs who lose their shirt.   

9. Do you work with investors or people who want to flip houses?

Yes! However, I would rather not limit these people to just flipping a house (buying, fixing it up, and then selling). Flipping usually results in paying straight income tax, where the government takes a substantial bite out of the profits. There are many ways to redevelop properties that can substantially increase you net profits by paying less taxes and also can develop income. Properties when developed, after considering the tax implications, can be qualified for a capital gains or real estate (exchange) 1031 situation.  In some cases, clients are looking to develop a revenue stream from renting.  We can work with people in many areas of real estate investment and do.

10. Do you become involved in real estate investment partnerships and if you do, what do you expect from partners?

I look for partners that have a reputation for integrity, directness, and can add to the partnership. It goes without saying that credit worthiness and the ability to invest in the project are important. Even though they may not be involved in the day-to-day activities, I look for them to participate during investor meetings, have a desire to volunteer for assignments, and sometimes take on the administrative role. Every partnership is different, so I don’t have a cookie cutter design. It’s determined with the partner(s). The amount of money involved differs for every project as well as the financial structure among the partners.

11. What jobs have you been involved with over the past few months?

A few of them have been simple plumbing repairs, interior trim work, fixing doors that don’t close, repairing cabinets, building a book case, water infiltration and moisture solutions, and entry door replacement. Larger projects include bathroom and kitchen remodeling within the present space, finish basements, and interior redesign of space. Our largest projects include a major home reconfiguration and expansion; a kitchen/great room addition with a new elevation is going into the design stage and a bathroom/kitchen project is being readied.

The remainder of the questions will be answered in my next article (Part 2).

Learn more about how to improve and add more value than you spend by exploring www.thediycoachusa.com and www.remodelingreports.com. Read the blog articles and learn some of the things that professionals won’t tell you. Link to industry studies that will tell you the return on the money you spend when hiring a General Contractor. Read articles of the margins that the industry recommends  to be built into their prices. Become informed so you can choose the direction you want to take for your next project wisely.

YOU TO CAN DO IT FOR YOURSELF, BUT YOU DON’T HAVE TO DO IT BY YOURSELF!

May the Coach be with you,
Jerry R. Spumberg

I have seen (more often than I would like) the ruination of many expensive finishes by home owners with good intentions or so called professional that have a lack of knowledge about the right cleaning method for tile and stone. Use the wrong methods and cleaning agents or so called protective finishes and the result often ends up in the removal and the replacement of those expensive coverings of walls, floors, and countertops. I have asked Jim DeMont, the first source I turn to when I have surface cleaning problems, to share a little of what he knows and his experience so that you won’t encounter the damage to tile and stone surfaces that require replacing.

Jim DeMont has been in the cleaning business since 1983, starting as a technician and working with major cleaning companies in management and consultant capacities in several major markets throughout the country.  His company, Jersey Steamer, has been in business since 1996 and is a family owned and operated company that prides itself on exceptional quality and service at a fair price.  All workmanship is fully guaranteed and the results of his company’s work are  excellent.

Jim is also a certified master cleaner and carpet inspector and is at the leading edge of his industry. If you want to know more about Jim and his company, I strongly suggest you visit his website www.jerseysteamer.com.

Tile and Hard Surface Care

Probably the most important factor when it comes to maintaining your tile floors is knowing your tile.

Knowing what type of tile you own will dictate how and what you clean it with. There are cleaning techniques that are absolute no-no’s for specific tile types.   Be careful of what you use on tile or stone!

If you use the wrong cleaning product or method you could stand the chance of ruining your not so inexpensive flooring. Here are some helpful tips to use when doing your regular maintenance.

As previously stated it is very important to know your tile. If you have natural stone then you definitely don’t want to use an acid cleaner, vinegar, or bleach. These items can etch into the surface of the stone and leave scratched, blemishes, and other marks. It’s also recommended to never wax natural stone. Wax can leave behind residues that may cause further harm to the stone.

Experts in the tile cleaning business recommend that you get your tile floors cleaned and sealed by a professional every 3-5 years. With such a gap in between these cleanings it is important that you perform regular cleaning and maintenance yourself to keep your floors looking their best.

A great tool to have handy is a vacuum cleaner made for hard surfaces. This type of vacuum is more effective than sweeping and is designed to be gentler and less apt to create scratches then a broom would. Along with vacuuming you can also use a micro-fiber sweeper, like a Swifter. These are great for picking up any loose ends that the vacuum might have missed. They are also very gentle on your floors.  Along with vacuuming you also need to mop your floors regularly. When mopping you may want to use a string mop made of micro-fiber. Once again these types of mops are very gentle on tile and won’t cause scratches. Don’t use too much detergent when mopping. This will only cause residue buildup that can attract more soil. The detergent that you want to use will be a neutral pH cleaner that is made for tile. Remember to rinse your mop often while mopping. You don’t want to redistribute dirty water onto your floors.

Every third time you mop you should forgo any cleaning agents and just use plain water. This will rid the floor of any potential solvent build up from previous cleanings.

Knowing the differences and following the guidelines for cleaning the type of tile you own will ensure the maximum life of your tile flooring. And remember to call a professional anytime you encounter a situation that you don’t feel comfortable handling yourself.

From Coach Jerry: Thanks Jim! That was great advice. I would like to add one more thing to that for people who recently have a new installation. Make sure you have the care instructions before you purchase materials. Understanding what is required to maintain the product may change your mind to another product. Collect and put aside the maintenance instructions in a safe place for the products you choose. When that unexpected spill or event happens, you will know exactly how to implement the remedy. If not, call in an expert like Jim. You may spend a little extra money to make the problem disappear, but it’s a lot cheaper than replacement.

May the Coach be with you,

                           Coach Jerry

The following are a list of things you should consider doing that are relatively inexpensive, but worth doing so that you can save time and aggravation during the Fall and Winter months. They could also save you a ton of money and put a smile on your face next spring.

We will start outside the home and work our way inside. If you are unsure of how to do any of the items mentioned it is strongly recommend that you hire a qualified professional to show you how for the first time.

In New Jersey where I live, I do the following by Thanksgiving or shortly after. I try to avoid having to face these chores in uncomfortable cold weather or under the pressure of oncoming storms and severe drops in temperature.  If you live in a different climate, adjust accordingly.

Yard and Exterior

• Remove all leaves and yard debris, especially up against the house.
• Cover and secure outdoor furniture, barbeque grills, and play equipment.
• If you do not have frost proof hose bibs, turn off the inside valve and open the exterior bib to drain.
• Whether you have frost poof hose bibs or not, disconnect and drain all garden hoses. An un-drained hose connected to a frost proof hose bib can cause the unit to freeze and burst and require replacement. Un-drained garden hoses will split or weaken and result in a shorter life time or require replacement.
• If you have a lawn and garden sprinkler system, put a date on the calendar to blow out all the lines and winterize it. Make sure the backwater vacuum breaker is not holding water.
• Central Air Conditioning Compressors should be covered to prevent leaves and other debris from entering the grill.  Either shut off the circuit breakers or use the exterior disconnect to make sure the unit is not accidently started when the weather is too cold, which results in damaging the compressor. This is also a good time to make sure the unit is level so that water entering it drains out properly.

Fact: Water from all sources is the number one cause of damage in residential homes.  Please visit the article “Diagnosing The Cause of a Damp or Wet Basement” on this blog or at www.remodelingreports.com.

• If you have planting beds around your house, make sure that water will run away from the foundation.
• Are gutters and leaders sound and clear of debris? Are the leaders extended or exit on to a splash block that will lead melting snow, ice, and water away from the house?
• If you have a sump pump, does the water that exits from it run away from the foundation and has it been installed in such a way that the piping won’t freeze?
• Do you have a back up pump on hand for a replacement in case the one you have fails?
• Are all windows and doors properly caulked and have been examined to make sure the calking isn’t failing because of age?
• If you have any signs of leaking through the roof or siding, it should be fixed now.
• If you have attic access, it is a good time to look underneath the roof when it’s raining to see if everything is sound.
• If you have exterior painted wood trim, doors, and windows, examine it to make sure that the paint is in good condition. If it is not, the wood underneath it will be subject to deterioration and rot and eventually require expensive replacement.
• If you have wood siding, examine it as above for the same reasons.
• If you have vinyl or aluminum siding, make sure it’s attached to the exterior properly and that any of it that is loose is fixed quickly.  In many cases, the fix is inexpensive compared to the cost if it blows off the house (totally detached). This holds true for any trim that has been clad.
• I look at the condition of my shed and decks and decide if It needs to be stained (or painted) before the winter or should I plan for it next spring.
• Replace any broken glass or insulated glass where the seals have failed.

 Exterior deterioration from ignoring normal required maintenance can lead to high cost repairs and replacement from damage to other parts of the building. Not replacing the protective coatings over materials that have weathered will significantly shorting their life expectancy.

Basement and Equipment Checks

•  Before you need your Hot Air Furnace for heat, make sure you change the air filter, vacuum any dust or soot around the burners, check that the smoke pipe to the chimney is pitched and secure.  Then confirm that the blower, induction fan, and thermostat are working.  Your unit is now ready for the cold weather.  If you have a humidifier, make sure it is turned on and that the humidistat is set properly.  Replace or clean the element of the humidifier according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. Some units have a winter damper that must be opened in the heating season and closed in the cooling season. If you have an electronic air filter, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for cleaning the filters and parts. Remember as mentioned previously to turn off the circuit breakers to the air conditioner.  In some of the new high-efficiency units, where you have an interface control instead of a thermostats, check the manufacturer’s manual which may recommend that you always leave the AC circuit breaker turned on.
• Make sure all drains and condensate lines work and are clear of any materials that could prevent draining.
• It is a good idea to have your systems inspected and serviced by a professional from time to time. When you have this done, you should watch and ask questions so that you have some understanding of what they look for, what they do, and how the system works.
• If you have a Hot Water Heating System, make sure there are no leaks.  If the expansion tank is the type that requires yearly draining, drain it before starting the system.   Make sure that the circulators are working and that the pressure gauge shows the correct operating temperature and pressure when it is firing up. Wait until the boiler has reached its set temperature and normal operating pressure and turn the thermostats up to open zone valves or operate circulator pumps. At this point you should recheck the pressure and temperature gauges to confirm the boiler is operating within recommended norms. This is also a good time to determine that the pressure and temperature relief valve is working correctly and is not allowing water to pass through it. A simple check is to manually open the relief valve by lifting the lever and release it back to its original position. Make sure you have a bucket under the overflow pipe. If the water stops running with no drips in a few minutes, it should be working properly.  Finally, each system may require air in the lines to be bled for each zone. Make sure you have a knowledgeable person show you how this is done for you particular system.
• The next item to inspect should be your Hot Water Heater(s). Examine for leaks of any kind. Make sure there are no items near it that would block its ability to access the air it needs to burn. Remove all items of a flammable nature out of the vicinity of the heater. This applies to any gas or oil fired appliance.  If you see dripping from the relief overflow pipe, the relief valve may be in need of replacement. Never cap the overflow pipe to resolve its dripping; it can lead to the tank exploding and harming the building and occupants severely. I will be covering Hot Water Heaters in more detail in a separate article to be posted on the blog shortly. It is also a good practice to hook up a hose to the drain at the bottom of the heater that goes into a five gallon bucket, open the valve fully and remove 4 to 8 gallons from the heater. This stirs up any mineral sediment and removes it, thus preventing a buildup. This buildup can do several things that include cutting down the recovery rate for hot water while making the heater less efficient and the mineral deposits can deteriorate the glass lining and lead to early failure.  Even when the manufacture of newer units say that they are self cleaning, it is still a good idea to do this.
• The best time to make sure everything is in good working order is before you need it.
• If you have a sump pump, follow the previously mentioned that applies to it and ensure it runs the water into the sump pit to confirm that it is working properly.
• If you have any cracks in the foundation wall, now is the time to repair them before frost and ice and the cold open them up further.
• If your basement is damp or shows or smells from mold, read our blog article on “Diagnosing a Damp or Wet Basement”.  It can also be found on www.remodelingreports.com in an easy to copy or downloadable form.
• If you have some traces of mold, I will be posting in the next few weeks methods of cleaning it up yourself that won’t cost you an arm or a leg, just a little elbow grease. If you can’t wait, I suggest you read “The JLC Guide to Moisture Control”. This is my bible on the subject with the exception of one additional method of remediation.                                                     

Interior

 Safety First

•  Make sure you have a minimum of a 5 lb., or better yet 10 lb., properly rated and inspected fire extinguisher on every floor. Fire extinguisher require maintenance, recharging, or replacement and will fail to work when you most need it if unchecked too long. Make sure you have an additional extinguisher in the kitchen near the stove and oven.
• Replace all back up batteries in smoke and carbon dioxide detectors at the same time each year. I choose to do this around Thanksgiving.  (Hint: You can even write the date on the battery with a permanent marker as an extra reminder of when the batteries were last changed.)
• Have a family fire drill and designate a place to gather outside the house.
• If you have drinking water filters, have you been replacing the cartridges as required?  When you do this, date the unit as a reminder.

  Water, Water Everywhere 

• Wait for a heavy rain storm and go into the attic to make sure there are no leaks.
• During this storm, check windows and doors and note any signs of penetration or discoloration for future exterior inspection. If you can’t solve the problem, do not let it go. Water can cause tremendous damage over a period of time and cause mold and health problems.
• Check all toilets,  faucets, and tub or shower valves to make sure they are not running or dripping water. When they operate improperly, the loss of water can add up to hundreds of dollars.

 I’m sure you have lots of things that you can add to these, so post your suggestions on the blog. We will all appreciate it.  I know that when you look at this list it may be overwhelming.  Just tackle each item one at a time and you may save yourself a lot of time, aggravation, and money.

May the Coach be with you,
                         Coach Jerry

Telling the truth with directness is not something that is often done in advertizing. Many articles written for periodicals, special topic magazines, and books often have a position that editorializes and manipulates the content so that it appears in a favorable light and defends the author’s point of view. Television programs and websites do the same and I am no different. My perspective always comes from the point of view of the investor/builder constructing a project for myself when addressing you. Not only do I want the project to satisfy our needs, I want it to make financial sense.

You can find DIY shows that show you that anyone can almost do anything and others that show you the poor results of projects so bad that they had to demolish the work and start from scratch. In the first case, you have a personable professional guiding and working with a homeowner in what seems like fun. In the second case, you have a rough around the edges, frustrated, and angry hands-on builder telling the viewer how terrible and shameful the person who did the original work should be of the resulting project, whether a professional or DIYer. He then goes about redoing the project right. This all makes for great television and video by using extreme situations, but does not always represent most realities. There is a lot more that takes place than you see within the ½ to 1 hour of a TV show.

If you have visited www.thediycoachusa.com, you have learned that our point of view is this: a knowledgeable professional working with you can save you a ton of heartache and even add more value to your home than you spend, similar to what is sometimes seen on TV. In addition, our method not only helps you learn and decide what is best for you, but also puts you in control from the conception of the project to its finish. Remember that builders and skilled tradesman spend years to learn their craft, spend a ton of money to own the best tools, and are learning new techniques for new materials all the time. What parts of the project you will do should require an open mind, careful consideration and a discussion with a professional before you make final decisions. A seasoned professional will fill the gaps in your knowledge and avoid the frustration that many DIYers encounter from mistakes.

If you Google search the internet for the Cost vs. Value Reports that is published in Remodeling (a trade publication by Hanley Wood), you will find what the industry knows about Cost vs. Value as it relates to remodeling projects done by contractors. This publisher is one of the most trusted sources of information for us in the construction industry. What you will find is that these studies have been done each year, are broken down by regions, and into midrange and upscale price ranges for most of the remodeling projects you could consider. You will also find a link on our website next to “Nine Facts that Can Save You a Bundle” to the studies. The “Reports” will show you that for most projects when you hire a contractor, the return is about 60-80 cents for every dollar you spend.  

One professional publication states: “that over the last few years of tough economic times that the growth of the owner directly participating in the contracting of trades and often in the work itself has reached 67% of all home repair, maintenance and remodeling project”. Over the last two decades, DIYers have become a growing sector of home improvement for several reasons. These include the growth of the big box home improvement stores such as Lowes and Home Depot, the willingness of wholesale distributors to sell to them, instructional television networks and shows dedicated to home improvement and residential real estate. A massive amount of publications, videos, and websites supply additional How To and product information.

More recently, a new category of help is available: people like me who will work side by side with you, your family, and your friends to take away the risk that DIYers might stumble into because of the lack of knowledge, skills, and the right tools. This has been fully covered in a five part series about Remodeling Coaching that can be found within archives of this blog or in a down loadable form at www.remodelingreports.com. What this article is about is can you really increase the value of your home by an amount greater than you spend the same as a builder or remodeling contractor? We will let the numbers speak for themselves.

The industry standard for marking up a project is between 50-67% over costs. Again, go back to the links at our website next to the “9 Facts” mentioned before and click on the title of the articles to confirm the numbers. These markups are necessary and not unreasonable if a remodeler wants to stay in business and make a profit. Office and staff overhead, insurance, equipment costs, advertising, selling commissions, plus the  return on invested capital are all part of a company’s markup. For most companies, the project’s supervisor is charged as a project cost and is not included in the markup. However, some companies include the supervisor as part of management overhead. Every successful company develops their own formula to calculate a selling price, but the averages are good enough for this exercise. Remember, the costs just mentioned are company operational costs that are added to your price when you hire a general contractor over and above the costs that take place at the site.

The point of this article is for those that are willing to participate, the Do It Yourselfer, there is a better and more financially sound way to go. They can manage their own project with a little help and eliminate most of the costs mentioned above.

According to the Cost vs. Value study of 2008-2009, a midrange major kitchen remodeling project that sold for $56,611 would add $43,030 or 76% of the dollars spent. Simply put, you would have added $13,581 less value than you would have spent. So the next time a builder runs an add on television that points to your home and home remodeling as a good investment by adding value to what may be one of your largest investments, think about the bank paying you back 76% of what you deposit. Not a good deal is it? However, there is a way of keeping your cake and eating it. You will just need some help in a collaborative effort to chart your course and sail your ship. Using the numbers above, I will show you why.

If a builder doing this project for himself removed a 50% markup that was added to the kitchen project above, that would result in his hard on site cost being $37,929.37. If the markup removed was 67%, his hard on site cost would be $33,900 or $22,711 of less spent dollars. The range of dollars added in value in this extracted example is from $5,101 to $9,130. If you really want to understand the change, add the $13,581 to the range above to understand the turn-a-round from lost value to more value added. How about a Wow!

This is just the tip of the iceberg to increase residential real estate value. There are many other factors that come into play and I could probably write several books and not cover them all. Some of those factors have to do with designing for your local market, the location and characteristics of the property, and your desire to maximize the value added. Most projects are a balancing act between what you want, what you need, and what you can afford. Oh by the way, talk to your accountant about the tax advantage when it’s your primary residence when you someday sell. It’s another Wow! Whether you hit a home run and add double the value to what you spent (I have had projects with that unusual result), have the results shown in the mathematical example above, or have less value added to your home than you spent is dependent on all the factors that go into a project and your choices. It’s all up to you! 

In addition, as you participate in the administration you may be willing to be involved in some of the actual work and you will add even more value to your home. I’m always finding another project around my own house and if not, my wife will find it for me. You can gain most of the advantage that I and others in the trades have because you can do it for yourself, but you don’t have to do it by yourself. The reason a professional builder has an advantage over the DIYer is because of his or her recognition by venders and trades people, expertise, and experience that attract other professionals. All who contribute to a project prefer a project that is well run by a knowledgeable person and they price accordingly. If you have someone in your family or a friend who is qualified and has been successful in the construction industry, ask them for support through the entire project. If not, find a Coach. This will give you the same advantages of a builder. If you are within the areas I serve in New Jersey, call us, but first spend time on our website and blog.

The numbers don’t lie! In these uncertain times, it makes absolute sense to take charge of your next home improvement project!

One last point: if cost and the return on investment is not a concern to you but you time is, then hire the best builder you can find, not the cheapest. You want the one who will put in the expert supervision, coordination, and oversight that is needed for a quality project and deliver it at a reasonable price.

May the Coach be with you,

                Coach Jerry

In this article, I will cover materials that are used for making counter tops such as Quartz, Tile,  Solid Surface, Bucher Block and Wood, Concrete, and Stainless Steel. There is even a product called Richlite that is made from paper from certified managed forests and contains a petroleum-based resin that some consider a greener product of which I have never experienced.  What is green and what is not is a subject for a totally different article.  Perhaps what could be true green is to salvage used countertop materials from a discarded kitchen and incorporate them into a new kitchen.  This article, along with “Part 1″, should give you a good place to start your research for deciding what the best materials are for you to use for your kitchen countertops and similar applications in your next project.

Richlite

Having not used this product, I can only tell you what I have read and seen. It may be worth your time to investigate it because of its uniqueness.  It comes in multiple colors, sizes, and thicknesses that can be used with any style of decor.  Richlite is made of paper that comes from managed forests of North America.  The paper is treated with resin, pressed, and baked to create the solid sheets that are used for countertops.  As with some other materials, there is the potential for some staining from things like red wine, juices, and mustard when left in contact for extended periods.  For care instructions, Google the manufactures website.  The product is harder than wood but similar to Solid Surfaces.  It can be scratched or gouged and so the use of a separate cutting surface is highly recommended.  However, the color is through the entire material and most cuts, nicks, and scratches may be repairable by following the manufacturer’s manual.

 This material must be tough because it is used in outdoor skate parks as a ramp surface.  It is heat resistant up until 350 degrees F so you do not have to worry about its proximity to a stove, but a hot pad or trivet should be used underneath hot pots and trays.  If you have experience with this product, I would like to hear from you.

Quartz

Quartz, which is marketed under quite a few brand names, is really a composite of several materials.  It is produced by binding stone chips (typically quartz) to powders and resins.  In some cases, other minerals are added to the recipe.  It starts at a more expensive price than granite (about $50 per sq. ft.), but tops out at about $100 per sq. ft.  For a heavily used kitchen, this may be the best material because it is stain and heat resistant, does not require sealing, and is one of the most scratch resistant.

From a decorating standpoint, it comes in many colors and can pass for natural stone.  If you use complex profiles on the edges and corners be careful because they are more likely to chip then rounded edges.  In my own eyes, these countertops appear more uniform than natural stone.  Because I personally enjoy the diversity of natural stone and each countertop being unique and different like works of art, I prefer Granite.  However, if uniformity is important to you then Composite Quartz counters and you may be perfect together.

Stainless Steel

For that commercial or ultra modern utility look, there may be nothing else that can make a statement “that serious cooks work here”.  It can be used with other countertop materials to represent a strong contrast between different dedicated work areas as well as a solo material.  It works especially well with a commercial stove and oven unit or the pots, pans, utensils, and dish cleaning area.  In areas where water is in high use, sinks, drain boards and backsplash can be integrated into one piece containing the water and directing it down the drain.

A word of caution:  you want a stainless steel with a high nickel and chromium content, otherwise it will not resist corrosion or stains well.  You want it fabricated from heavy gauge (thickness) sheets so that it doesn’t  dent easily.   A satin or brushed finish is best for most since it will hide scratches.  What you may like most about good stainless steel is its capability to handle hot pots and trays right out of the oven or off the stove.  What you may not like is that stainless can be noisy and will show fingerprints and smudges.

Wood

Wood is one of the oldest materials used for kitchen countertops.  Even in today’s world where we have so many choices, it still has its place as I think you will agree.  From a visual perspective, it is warm and conveys a sense of natural beauty.  It can fit into a Traditional or Country Kitchen, but be equally at home in an Oriental, Danish Modern, or Rustic Cabin decor.  Some cooks even love it more when it becomes stained or scratched in the same way they love well-used antiques.

Each species of wood has different characteristics and there isn’t enough time in this article to discuss all the woods available.  All wood expands and contracts from temperature and the moisture/humidity in the air even when sealed with a sealer.  This is different between species and the way the wood is cut from the log.  If exposed to excessive water, whether directly from spills or indirectly as moisture in the the air, it may warp and/or cup.  When water gets under wood finishes it will cause them to peel.  If you want to keep them looking new you will have to sand and refinishes’ them about every year or so.  Those areas that are used for cutting or chopping should be finished with a nontoxic mineral oil.  When burns or stains occur, you may be able to sand them away, but remember wood is not very heat resistant and should be protected from hot pots and trays.  Perhaps one of the reasons wood is loved most (besides it’s good looks) is the way it treats the edges of fine cutlery by helping to avoid dulling and frequent sharpening for the serious chief.

Woods that have the qualities needed in boats and workbenches such as Teak, Eastern Sugar Maple, and German Beech for specific tasks make great tops for kitchens for similar reasons.  Butcher block, which is pieces of wood glued together, are made in two ways.  In the first, the end-grain faces up and is best for a chopping.  The second is flat grain (face grain), which has greater aesthetic appeal and makes a fine workbench.  Some of the other woods that are used are Cherry, Walnut, and Appalachian Oak. When picking a wood it is important to understand its traits.  If I was interested in a hard and scratch-resistant surface that would not tend to warp or wear unevenly, I would pick Hard Maple first followed by German Beech.  This is the same material that has been used for hundreds of years in building workbenches of all types for use by wood shops, butchers, and home and commercial kitchens. There are other choices of exotic or South American species that may work well once made, but present more difficult problems during manufacturing that make their cost greater or have properties that cause their color to change which can detract from their original appearance.

Solid- Surface Materials

These materials are synthetics made from polyester or acrylic.  They come in many colors and shades and can be made to imitate natural stone or quartz countertops.  One of the newest versions of this material is translucent and can produce a stunning effect when illuminated.  The color is uniform thru the product’s thickness, making it possible to carve, inlay, mold, and texture it by sandblasting. The material comes in thicknesses from ½ ” to ¼” thick.  This material is applied to a plywood subsurface similar to the way plastic laminate is used to make counter tops.  When an edge treatment is desired, the ½ ” thick material is used.  The use of molded sinks and backsplashes can be integrated into a seamless counter.

The material is impervious to water and light sanding can repair slight dents and abrasions.  If it has deep cuts or burns into it, you should call a professional.  He will sometimes use the waste pieces (ask for them) from when your top was made in repairing it.  Very often, a few left over pieces are given to you from the fabricator to use as cutting boards.  I have this countertop in my own home and find it easy to clean with a mild non-abrasive dish soap and sponge.  We use wood cutting surfaces and heat mats when needed and they still look great more than fifteen years from when they were installed.  You should find the price to be in the $35 to $100 range with an additional cost for a molded sink.  If cost is important and an edge detail not consider, the ¼” material for its cost savings while considering the type of use it will need to endure.

Tile

Tile comes in several types that are suitable for countertops that include ceramic, porcelain, and natural stone.  In order for it to last in a countertop application, it must be installed properly in the best manner possible.  Installing tile for countertops is not a subject that I will go into since there is plenty of information available in books and from the manufacturers.  In recent years, the manufacturers of tile have developed matching edge pieces as part of a tile line made especially for countertops.

My favorite tile for countertops is porcelains because of its hardness, rugged wear, resistant nature, color thru, and available textures.  All tile is highly resistant to heat.  Ceramic tile is more likely to chip then the others and grout can stain even when sealed.  Some grouts are more stain resistant, including one in a two-part epoxy formula that performs well against staining that you should investigate.  Stone tile performs in the same way that all stone countertops perform and can be found with matching edges for counter top use in limited selections.  The advantage with stone tile is it will be much less expensive then solid stone countertops.

The installation of tile countertops can be done by an experienced DIYer. If you undertake this, I suggest the following:

• Know what you are doing and understand how to lay it out for your particular tile choice.
• Build the right sub counter using plywood and cement board.
• Make sure your base cabinets can handle the weight and are set properly.
• The sub counter should be level with the top on the same horizontal plane.
• Keep grout lines to the minimum recommended by the manufacturer.
• Use the right materials of high quality.

Concrete

Concrete countertops are often seen in a modern or utilitarian settings.  The few times I was involved with this material, the concrete was poured into a form that was built on top of the base cabinets.  This was done by an experienced skilled craftsman that was very knowledgeable about concrete in this application.  I am told that it can also be bought prefabricated, but have no experience with the product in this form.  From a decor perspective, concrete can be made from a choice of many colors, include inlaid designs using many different materials, and have shapes such as shells or drain boards molded in to it.  It can also be textured to meet a clients wishes.

Concrete is heavy and you must make sure that your base cabinets are strong enough to support it.  Its durability is dependent on the knowledge and skill of the person who builds the countertop and the sealers used.  If the person who builds it is not qualified or the conditions of support (including the stiffness of the floor) are not just right, it can develop cracks.  If stain is used to color the concrete, you may find that in the future they need to be reapplied. What you use for a sealer will be dependent on the use of the countertop.  I know of some DIYers who have attempted to make and install their own concrete tops with some success and others who were not.  I believe to do this right, the learning curve is long and the work time consuming for the inexperienced. The cost is between $85 to $125 per sq. ft. to have this done for you.  My personal opinion is to look at other materials within the same price range or less unless you just love the concrete look over everything else.

The guidelines in the second paragraph of “The most important things to remember” of my Part-1 article should help you through your decision making process.  The article “How remodels and Builders Buy Right” at www.remodelingreports.com (which is linked to this blog just above the article list) is an easy to print or down load form (also appears as a past blog article) will aid you in your purchase.  In my opinion, it is always best to deal with the fabricator (manufacturer) of the countertop rather than a third party such as a retailer or a big box home improvement store.  Not only should you get a better price, you will get to see their operation and be able to evaluate the business compared to others.  Along with references from past customers and research from consumer rating services, you should be able to pick the right supplier.  If you are replacing old tops, I suggest you hire a master carpenter who is qualified in cabinet installations to evaluate the base cabinets and their suitability for the installation of the counter top of your choice. He will consider the strength of the base cabinets to hold the weight of the new top as well as the cabinets being level and providing a uniformly flat support surface.

May the Coach be with you,
Coach Jerry

Choosing the work surfaces today that are installed on top of your base kitchen cabinets is not as easy as it was fifty years ago. The choice of patterns, textures, colors, and materials are almost infinite. This is all due to the ongoing introduction of new materials that are readily available to the consumer. Because of competition and technology, many materials that were once thought of as expensive luxury items have become more affordable and offer greater longevity of use that make them cost effective. Some experts say that there are no hard and fast rules in choosing materials, but I differ.  As a builder, I know that sooner or later every home gets sold. We at The DIY Coach believe you could actually add more value than you spend if you are smart about picking the right countertops for your kitchen. To know more about this, I invite you to browse our blog www.thediycoachusa.com and www.remodelingreports.com.

The most important things to remember are the following:

• The cost should be within your budget.
• The trend of using more than one material for countertops can be dramatic, but the materials used should relate and enhance the functional use of the area and blend with the decor.
• Different colors of the same material can be used to designate or emphasize an area.
• Maintenance, resistance to hard use, reparability, and longevity should be considered against the cost and value added.
• There are two extreme ways of looking at a kitchen project; most clients fall in the middle:
  1. The kitchen is an important luxury item that we want our way regardless of cost
  2. We want to maximize the value added when we sell.
• Pick what you love, but be careful that you don’t pick something most people hate.  It could hurt you when you go to sell.

I will discuss most of the materials that are used from Plastic Laminate (the one I grew up with), Wood (the oldest material used), Ceramic Tile, Solid-Surface material, Composite Materials, Stone, Concrete, and Stainless Steel.

Plastic Laminates

Plastic laminate, sometimes known by the brand name Formica, is relatively thin. It is made of several layers of melamine (paper and plastic resin under heat and pressure). The product does come in various grades and gauges, with some rugged enough for commercial store fixture applications. The material is then glued to particleboard, MDF, or plywood using contact cement. The tops install easily when properly made to fit the cabinets and walls. This is done by building a template that is used in the construction of the sub base that the plastic laminate will be applied to.

These countertops can be built by an experienced do it yourselfer who owns the right tools on site. If you don’t own the right tools or have a place to work, you would be best off using a fabrication shop that specializes in this product. (The cost of you purchasing the tools and tooling alone may cost more than the tops.)  These fabrication shops are going to be much efficient than you because of their ability to purchase greater volumes of materials at a lower cost and manufacture in a shop with professional equipment.  These shops not only do a large volume of business in counter tops, but also build residential and commercial cabinets and store fixtures using the same materials.  When required or for my own use I have built these tops, but if cost was the determining factor and not time, I would have them made by a specialist. Many cabinet retailers have found it less expensive to use outsourced local plastic laminate fabricators than making the tops in house and so will you.

This countertop material gives you a choice of many colors, textures, and patterns. The decorative layer is quite thin, but has the ability to resist water, stains, very mild abrasion, and when the surface is in good condition, it is sanitary. To keep it clean, it is best to use a sponge with a mild detergent and water. The reason that this material is picked the most often is because it is inexpensive, even though its drawbacks include being easily chipped or scratched by ceramic pots, sharp or serrated knives, and scorched by a hot pot. In conditions of high humidity, it may also delaminate from the material it was glued to. When this top is heavily damaged, replacement may be the only option. If an edge becomes unglued, it can often be re-glued.               

I grew up with plastic laminates that very often showed a tell tale black line along its edge. To eliminate this in the past, there was a method known as post forming where a thin laminate was bent around the backsplash and front edge. The problem with these tops was that they did not stand up to the same abuse the thicker materials could endure. Post formed countertops are still around today and exhibit many of the same problems as in the past. Very often, you can find them fully fabricated and stocked at big box retailers at an inexpensive price. Today, this reveling black line has been solved with a more expensive, solid core product where the color is the same thru the material. When the edges of this material are machined, there are no black lines to show.

The life expectance of this material is about 10 to 15 years unless it becomes damaged. Its appearance does decline with age but for the budget minded, it gives a large variety of choice to fit any décor.

Granite

I will be talking about other types of stone used for counter tops, but from my builder’s perspective, this is one of my favorites. When people see granite countertops in a kitchen, they think of it as a luxury upgrade. That is because at one time it was expensive and seen mostly in estate homes. Today’s reality is that it is only about 25% more than the higher end of plastic laminate. If you consider its longevity when properly taken care of, it can be the least expensive choice. In fact, it is one of the products that can add more value to your home than you spend when you include that consideration into your purchase.

The place to buy this product is from a reputable fabricator with a good track record. The use of computers and the machinery that they can run has changed the way this material is made. The equipment is expensive, but higher production that results in a better product at a lower cost has become today’s benchmark. Be wary of prices that seem to be too good to be true; there are different grades of stone slabs. Good fabricators only use the best. Defects that you may not be able to detect at first can be as significant as structural faults that will fail in the future or surface repairs that were made and can reappear later. In addition, a highly skilled installation is a must as well as the use of cabinets that can support the weight.   If you buy through a Big Box home improvement store or a retailer of kitchen cabinets, expect to pay an additional markup over what a fabricator would charge. To learn more about buying, go to our blog at www.thediycoachusa.com-blog and read How Remodelers and Builders Buy Right. (It can be easily printed or down loaded by clicking on Remodeling Reports or going directly to www.remodelingreports.com .)

Besides the value mentioned above, Granite has many other qualities that has made it the most popular stone used. Homeowners and interior designers like it because it comes in a variety of rich colors that range from black, almost pure white, green, brown, gold, blue, yellow, violet, mauve and more. Its texture is visible crystalline and additional minerals and colors can be found in it. The endurance of granite is legendary in that it approaches the hardness of diamonds. It is almost non-porous and can be polished to a high finish if so desired. It is maintained simply by using a sealer as recommended by the manufacturer a few times a year, similar to using spray wax on wood furniture.  For daily use, wipe it off with a damp sponge or towel. A word of caution: be careful leaving orange juice or other acidic materials on it for extended periods of time. It is a surface you can work on and leave a hot pot on without worry. It is also repairable in some cases by a skilled professional.

The range of cost for Granite can be as little as $40 to over $200 per square foot. The cost of Granite is based on several factors besides that of the quality issue mentioned previously. Granite comes from all over the world and so the cost of bringing it to us is a factor. Some Granite varieties are more common than others are and the competition between quarries in the market place controls the fabricators prices. Some of the most beautiful Granites are scarce or come from a particular quarry that sets whatever price they wish. Generally speaking, the cost has little to do with performance. There are many varieties of Granite that can fit into a tight budget. The same variety of Granite can be equal to but at a lower price from one fabricator to another because of whom they buy it from and the quantities they buy.  Much of what I just said in the purchasing of Granite applies to the purchasing of other types of natural stone materials. You will also find that the fabricators of Granite also fabricate other solid surfaces materials.

Marble

One of the most classic of all stone materials is Marble. Like granite, it comes in a wide variety of colors and may have lovely veins running through it.  As elegant as it is, it is also soft, porous, stains readily, and can be gouged. These characteristics make it the ideal material for sculpture. It is not very heat resistant. Water can leave a mark and oil will stain it easily. Never use plumbers putty with marble because it will stain it. That being said, this beautiful stone and its cool nature make it an excellent choice in a bake center. It must be properly sealed, kept clean, and chopping or slicing food on it should be avoided. However, if you appreciate and take care of it, it will serve you for a lifetime and take on character with age. You will find the cost within the same range as Granite with the high end on the lower side.

Limestone

Limestone is a stone that has fine graining and little veining when compared to marble. Its advantage over marble is that it resists heat much better, but otherwise exhibits similar characteristics and requires the same care. In light use areas it is chosen for its appearance and texture that can enhance a rustic look with its’ natural beauty. Its price range is between $55 to $110 per square foot.

Soapstone

Soapstone is a material that is imported, for the most part from Brazilian quarries. This rare and unique material commands a price. There are also fewer fabricators that work with this material and some work with no other. It is also known as steatite, which is composed of minerals such as talc, magnesite, chlorite, and dolomite. It still pays to shop and compare pricing and reputation as we have mentioned earlier, but realize that less competition means higher prices. You probably won’t find much about this material in books about kitchens. If you are interested in soapstone, I suggest a Google web search for soapstone that will lead you to fabricators websites. Many of them post excellent information about this material. For those of you where cost is less of an objection, it is worth your investigation.

Make sure that you are purchasing an architectural grade of soapstone rather than the much softer artistic grade. The architectural grade is denser than granite and the other stones I discussed earlier. It is nonporous which makes it is stain proof and reactant proof. It can be oiled to accelerate a natural darkening process, however the oil will not penetrate it. In the past and as well as now, it is used in chemical and scientific laboratories for countertops, sinks, and tiled floors. In today’s homes, it is used for countertops, integrated sinks, drain boards, and bathroom basins. Because it is unaffected by heat, you can find cookware, stoves, and fireplaces lined with it. It comes in different colors and may be cut and shaped without any special stone working equipment. This ability to be worked must be kept in mind when chopping or cutting.

In the kitchens that I have been involved in, areas that required foods being chopped or sliced used a different material or had a wood chopping surfaces stored nearby to be placed on the counter. In some cases, a pullout table from a base cabinet or included butcher-block table provided the chopping surface.  The use of soapstone in these very serious kitchens provided a very sanitary work environment for a family where cooking was an art.

In “Kitchen Countertop Madness Part 2″, I will write about materials such as Composite Materials (quartz based), Solid- Surface, Ceramic and Stone Tile, Stainless Steel, Concrete, and Wood. If you have questions about what we covered so far, please send them to us and we will cover it in a future article. I also urge you to do your own research. Kitchens are a significant purchase. You will find different points of views by knowledgeable experts as well as misinformation by others.

May the Coach be with you,
Coach Jerry

Hello blog followers. I must apologize for not continuing the kitchen series, but I promise I will. However I have been receiving over the last few months many questions about reducing energy costs and have decided to entwine some articles that are aimed at these inquires.

In the area of constructing energy efficient buildings, I a have a background as a builder that goes back to the early 80′s when I was building one of the first super insulated, passive solar developments in New Jersey and offered this type of construction in other projects that we built and through our custom home division. In addition, I owned a plumbing and heating company since the 70′s that was involved with joint programs with the utility companies to install cost effective equipment in many of the conventional homes my companies were than building. A more recent, most interesting project for me was a 9000 Sq. Ft. geothermal home.

 I believe my knowledge, based on experience, is sufficient to answer and explore many of the questions we received in later articles except one or two. The first question that needs to be  answered and puts us at the beginning of the subject is not one of my strong points. The question is: Since energy, such as gas and electric, are commodities, is there a better way to buy it? After all, we can shop and compare gasoline, fuel oil, telephone, internet, and TV services. How can we do this for natural gas and electricity?  I’ve asked an expert, who saves companies and people many thousands of dollars through the use of his knowledge in this field, for the answer.           

Introducing the Author:

Larry S. Katz, Co-Founder of Energy Management Advisors LLC, has been helping customers make better use of technology for nearly 30 years. In addition to starting his own company, Larry has held engineering and sales positions for government contractors, industrial manufacturers, and telecommunications equipment vendors. His work history includes quality assurance systems for improved manufacturing processes, telecom testing solutions to reduce maintenance intervals, and energy assessments and rate structure analysis to improve efficiency and lower expenses for businesses. He has spent a large portion of his career focusing on operational cost improvements to directly benefit the client’s bottom line. Larry holds a Bachelor of Science degree in Electrical Engineering from Tufts University, Class of 1981.

For over 10 years, New Jersey businesses and non-profit institutions have had the opportunity to select electricity and natural gas suppliers to reduce the cost of their utility expenses. Deregulation has made energy supply procurement choices available while retaining the local utility company for delivery and maintenance. It is the equivalent scenario of choosing a long distance company while using your local phone company’s access lines.

 The Basics of Deregulation: How it Works

 Prior to energy deregulation, local utility companies provided every aspect of electric and gas services. This included supplying the energy, transmission to the local territory, and delivery to the home or business. Through the New Jersey Energy Choice program, customers can choose electric and/or gas generation suppliers. These suppliers are licensed by the state’s Board of Public Utilities (BPU) to insure high quality energy products. No matter which generation supplier is chosen, the local utility company will not change, and remains responsible for service delivery to your home or business.

 Energy Choices: What You Need to Know

 Many businesses have benefitted from the Energy Choice program with a reduction in their utility bills. Paying a lower rate for kilowatt-hours of electricity (cents/KWh) or gas volume (cents/therm) is good for the bottom line, naturally. But is the process as simple as signing a contract to pay a lower rate? What are the risks involved? How does one know if they are actually paying less? How long will they save, and are they saving as much as possible? Are there additional contractual obligations to obtain a lower rate?

 Although deregulation has introduced competition and lower prices to the energy market, there are a number of pitfalls that businesses need to avoid to ensure promised savings are realized. In reality, contracting for energy supply is like purchasing commodity futures, so it is in the consumer’s best interest to enlist the services of a trusted advocate to guide them through the decision making process. The main factors when buying energy supply are:

• Type of products available – fixed rate, variable rate, or hybrid
• Contract terms – length, conditions, termination fees (if any), liability, and flexibility
• Market indicators – utility rate seasonality, short and long term trends 

 How should businesses approach energy purchasing to achieve cost savings they can count on?

 Keys to a Successful Energy Supply Selection

 Here are four key points to follow when considering energy suppler options:

1.  Consult with more than one energy company. To ensure you are aware of the complete market offering, avoid working with a single supplier to take advantage of the best available energy options. Utilizing the services of a qualified energy consultant or broker that represents multiple electric and gas suppliers is highly recommended as an alternative to meeting with multiple suppliers individually. There are usually no additional charges or fees to the customer to work with an energy consultant in this manner. Energy suppliers have established channel partner relationships with consultants to offer their services in a given territory.
2.  Understand the options. Energy supply plans are offered with fixed and variable rates, and with different term lengths. When a customer signs an Energy Supply Agreement, a commitment is made to purchase energy for a term between one month and multiple years. Therefore, before signing a contract, the consultant or supplier should explain the pros and cons of the term length and associated risks involved, present commodity pricing trends to illustrate seasonal and multi-year market conditions, and substantiate why they recommend the plan that they do.
3.  Obtain a detailed analysis. The energy consultant or supplier should provide a detailed proposal with calculations showing rate structures, term lengths, the previous 12 months of use (KWh or therms), and past and/or future local utility rates to support their cost savings estimate. Information on the selected supplier should also be included. Ultimately, customers should sign-up for what makes sense economically with an acceptable level of risk mitigation.
4.  Pick the right Energy Broker/Consultant. An energy broker/consultant should take a long term view of energy requirements and costs for a business client, providing detailed analysis and all necessary information to make an informed energy supply decision, with timely reviews of savings in the months that follow. Like an accountant, financial planner, or other trusted adviser, your energy consultant or supplier should be a long term partner to help guide you through current and future energy management.

 Summary

 Owners of food markets, food wholesalers, restaurants, manufacturing plants, car washes, health clubs, and other businesses and non-profits can take advantage of electric and natural gas supply choices, save money, and confidently improve their bottom line. A knowledgeable and dedicated energy broker/consultant can surely help guide their clients through the energy procurement process successfully.

Larry S. Katz

Electrical Engineer; Vice President, Business Development
Energy Management Advisors LLC

If you have a question for Larry, please forward it through this blog and he will responed or contact you.

May the Coach be with you,

                                                Coach Jerry