Findings Judy’s Shower Leak

Findings Judy’s Shower Leak

By Jerry R. Spumberg, The DIY Coach

Dedicated to Judy Frankel of NJ101.5 FM for the idea

On Tuesday, March 20, 2012, I was driving back to my office from Toms River, New Jersey and was listening to the Judy and Dennis show on NJ101.5 FM Radio.  (These two are such great fun that they make the driving go by so much quicker.) The co-host, Judy Frankel, was telling Dennis about a hard-to-find shower leak that neither a plumber or handyman could find.  Because Judy had become so frustrated in her failure to find someone to solve the problem, she had given up. I could almost imagine her setting up buckets every time somebody wanted to use this shower. I thought, as I was driving, it would make a great article for Remodeling Reports. I have spent a good part of my career as both a Licensed Plumber and Builder solving issues such as these and want to share what I have learned with the visitors to our websites and especially Judy, who makes my driving so much more enjoyable.

To begin with, Judy don’t give up!  Here’s why.  Water damage to homes is a major issue. It can cause the destruction of wood through rot, delaminate plywood subflooring to failure, attract wood destroying insects seeking moisture, and contribute to conditions favorable to growing mold. Even intermittent water problems over time may cause substantial damage that ends with the deterioration of ceilings, walls, and floors to the point of structural failure and expensive replacement. The cause of your leak may be found by using this investigative procedure.

I believe, from your conversation with Dennis, that the water leaking takes place under one or both of the following conditions: (1) it happens when it rains, (2) when someone is showering, or (3) both at the same time. I’m not sure whether you have a tub with a shower or just a shower. I also don’t know if you have a shower door, glass tub enclosure, or use a shower curtain. However if you follow my method, it will take all these situation into consideration to determine the cause.

First, let’s deal with the water when it rains. In most cases, a vent pipe from the drainage plumbing system for your bathroom exits your roof.  The purpose of this pipe is to release sewer gas pressure and to prevent the siphoning of traps. There is a pipe flashing that is woven into the roof shingles to seal the exterior of the pipe and prevent storm water from following it down into a home. If the flashing is damaged, deteriorated, or in need of caulking (sealing) where it meets the pipe, this is often the cause of water infiltration during storms. The second most reasonable cause is easily understood once you recognize the following: The vent pipe passes through the roof wood sheathing through a hole that is somewhat larger than the pipe. This is the reason for the use of the pipe flashing mentioned above. If the roof is worn and nearing the end of its servable life and /or there are other flashing issues, water may be leaking under the roof and running into the penetration that was made for the vent pipe. Resolving both issues would require going up on the roof to inspect the items mentioned above. Also, a look into the attic above the bathroom and maybe the use of a hose on the roof while another person is in the attic with a flashlight will reveal a problem. Caulking or replacing a pipe flashing is a relatively inexpensive repair, if that’s the cause. If it is that something else as mentioned above, that will have to be solved by a roofing repair specialist.

Having addressed the infiltration of storm water into the house, there is one more thing to check in the attic if the bathroom has an exhaust fan. It is important that the fan is properly installed and exhausts to the  outside of the house. If it isn’t, there can be significant moisture buildup in the vent pipe or the attic above which could  cause water leaking below. Just think about the condensation dripping from your car when using the air-conditioned. If you exhaust the bathroom air by opening up a window, we then move on.

Plumbing is actually two separate systems that work together to supply potable water and removal of waste. It is important to remember this because we want to avoid the interconnection to each other for health reasons and to realize that either or both can be the cause of a leak.

So let’s begin with the potable water system which operates under pressure. I’m talking about the hot and cold lines. If the leaking takes place only during the use of the water during showing, we know that there are no leaks up to the shower valve when water is shut off. The next step is to remove the shower head.  The same is true if there is a tub spout. I then cap off both lines. In doing this, I normally remove the shower head [sometimes the arm if it is the ball type and replace it with a nipple] and install a valve with a hose connection.  Having done that, I will shut off the just installed valve. I then remove the shower [or tub and shower] trim and handles so that it exposes the shower valve and stem seals and turn on both hot and cold water.  (If you don’t have the instructions for your particular shower valve you can find them on line.) This gives me a chance to see if there are any leaks coming from the connecting pipes to the shower head [and/or tub spout] and the valve body itself under pressure.  If nothing shows we begin the next step. If a leak appears, we do whatever is needed to repair it. One note here: It is not unusual for water to leak between the tile and the shower valve or tub spout trim. When removing it, if I suspect this is the case, I will seal up the penetrations through the tile before reinstalling the trim. In some cases I use a bead of clear silicon caulking under the trim. Not too much because if the trim ever has to be removed for a valve repair, I don’t want to have a permanent glued-to-the-wall problem.

The next step is to test the drainage system that is hidden. I connect a rubber hose directly to the drain in the floor so that the floor of the shower or tub does not get wet.   I then turn on the water and let this run for a while (about the same time a person uses to take a shower). If a leak shows, I know it’s in the waste plumbing below the floor. If not, we go to the next step.

I disconnect the hose and insert a test plug into the drain to seal off the waste.   I will then flood the pan with water to a point just below the threshold or the beginning of the wall tile.   If it is a tub, I will fill it to a point a few inches below the overflow.   If a leak shows here, I know I have to repair the seal on the drain connection. If nothing shows I go to the next step if it is for a tub. This requires that I fill the tub past the overflow to see if that could be the problem. In this case, that would only be a problem if someone was taking a bath and they overfilled the tub or overflowed it when getting in. It would not cause a problem from showering. No leaks, next step.

Before I go further, I want to spend a few minutes talking about showers that have a tiled floor. In most cases when you have a tiled floor, even up until the early eighties the tile was placed in cement into a custom box made out of lead. Plumbers normally did this work known as panning and so the name shower pan. When properly built with heavy lead sheathing it was folded out of one piece into a box and the drain attached. It then received several coats of asphaltum paint. When done correctly the pan would have a life of about 50 years or more. Very often it was not built correctly and could have a much shorter life. Back in the late seventies, we began to replace lead with other materials that were much safer to our water supplies and could last longer. However there are many reasons for shower pans to fail, some being the original builder’s skill and some being what happens to homes as they age. The unfortunate thing for you to understand is that is if this is the problem, the only solution may be to remove all the tile on the walls and floor within the shower and reconstruct the shower from the floor up. So I hope this is not your problem.

The next step. Once the leaking of water from the operation of both plumbing systems is eliminated we are left with the tile or wall surrounds within the wet area, the containment of water within the wet area through the use of glass enclosures with doors or shower curtains, and the bathroom floor area located outsidw the shower and tub area.

When addressing the wet containment area within the shower or tub, I use my knowledge and experience to determine the condition of the area. I look for areas where the walls of tile meet the [receptor] shower base or tub. First to see if where they meet is caulked with a durable material such as silicon and that it hasn’t deteriorated over time.  I also look to see if the surfaces are pitch away from the walls toward the drain. The next thing I look at is where walls meet at inside corners. These areas move seasonally and are more in need to be maintained on a seasonal basis and should be caulked rather than grouted.  I then look to see if the grouting between the tiles is sound or hasn’t been maintained. Finally, I will press on the walls to see if I can feel any weakness in the underlying substructure under the tile that could be from moisture that has gotten past the tile and has deteriorated the subsurface. Having made a visual inspection and making an assessment of the conditions, I proceed to my final steps.

Note: Grouting and caulking requires a semiannual  maintenance inspection. Depending on how often the shower is used, type of grout and caulk installed, the tile could  require more frequent attention. My wife and I are only two. I replace caulk and fill grout about every two to four years in areas where needed.  This does require the removal of the old, cracked or lose material.        

If still no leak, I place a six foot stepladder into the shower or tub wrapped in a plastic tarps or old shower curtain to mimic a person taking a shower. I place towels tight against the tub and shower where they meet the floor outside. This makes sure that any water that might go onto the floor is absorbed by them. I carefully turn on the shower so that it’s at a volume that a family member would use. I observe how much water, if any gets out of the confined area. If there is a leak at this point, I can make a reasonably accurate determination, but not perfect as to why a client has a leak. If there is no leak after running the shower the maximum amount of time a family member uses it, I then remove the towels on the floor. I then observe if any water is getting on the floor and leaking through.

As I move along this logical progression, most times I will understand what is leaking and what is not. If it’s been a sustained leak and can be easily eliminated by repairing or caulking, the decision to investigate further to ascertain  extent of damage by water is left to my client. After explaining the pros and cons, I give them my opinion as if it was my own home. If the solution requires a more extensive remedy, we discuss that as well.

 I do own a pencil camera inspection scope which can give me the ability to look into areas by only opening a small hole.   However, in most cases the best way to examine an area is to remove the ceiling under the shower so that you can assess the water damage as well as fix the leak. After the repair is completed, leaving it open allows us to make sure the repair is permanent before replacing the ceiling.

To sum it all up!

Finding what the cause of what some home repair problems are requires a person who understands how the various parts of a home work together to form a system and have learned through experience what can go wrong and has a sound approach to diagnose and resolve the issue. This not only applies to specialty trades such as plumbing and electrical, but to builders and remodelers. Not every plumber or electrician is good at repairs and neither is every builder or remodeler.

The solutions to resolve the problem when using best practices may be more costly than a quick fix, but in the end you will spend less over the years than the quick fix. Finding what is leaking has not been a problem for me or knowing the best course to take for the client. What is a problem that can get worst when not attended to is the cost of the correction.

May the Coach be with you on your next project.           

 

(Note: This article with photos will be added to our www.RemodelingReports.com site shortly.)

Lead Safe Work Practices For DIY Renovators

By Jerry R. Spumberg – The Do It Yourself Coach

[A must read article about safety for every homeowner living in a home built before 1978.]

If you are a DIYer working on your own home built before 1978, there may be health risks and a high exposure to legal liability issues due to lead paint.  Before starting any project,  you should be aware of the United States EPA Lead Safe Practices Regulations.  Because lead paint can be an extreme health hazard, these regulations put together a few years ago are now being enforced either by the EPA of the States, the Feds, or both!

 This is not to dissuade you from tackling projects!   It is quite the opposite!   It is to inform you that there is knowledge that you need to acquire to use the required practices and to develop some learnable skills. This is no more difficult to do than any other learning and skills you have developed and less difficult than most.  As a former builder and now a hands-on remodeling coach, I have been using similar remediation methods for years and am now engaged in educating my clients to follow these too.

 The object of this article is to give you the direction to start your own self-educational program. In addition, I want to share with you my builder’s  layman’s legal position [I am not a lawyer] that I believe there is the strong  possibility of exposure to liability actions if you don’t follow the regulations, even if you fall into the exempt category.  At the end of the article, I will let you know how to get a lot of great and free information on-line from the EPA that includes their “Initial Training Course Student Manual”; I will also give my recommendations for a low cost set of training CDs that I have reviewed and am using to train my clients to work safely.

 My recommendations are my own opinions.  I receive no financial benefit for them or any item I recommend to purchase.  I advise that before you take on any project, you fully research this subject and develop your own conclusions of what is best for you. This article’s sole purpose is to make you aware of the subject for your investigation and not to advise you in any manner on how to proceed or what to buy.

 You will learn as you investigate this subject about the need to rent or buy a Hepa vacuum that meets the Federal EPA’s requirements for lead safety, the equipment needed for your particular project, test kits that the EPA has approved for testing to determine whether you have a problem or not, the protective clothing and dust masks to protect yourself and those that may be working with you, and the proper procedures.  You will also be exposed to the EPA’s required record keeping for contractors. Much of this information in detail will be found in the resources found at the end of this article. Even though you as the home owner are exempt under the regulations, after your investigation,  you may conclude to abide by them as I am recommending to my clients.    

 Lead that enters the body when it is swallowed or inhaled in the form of paint chips, particles, or dust is extremely toxic and can cause many types of illnesses. This is commonly known as lead poisoning.  In children under the age of six, it can affect the brain and the developing nervous system that can result in reduced I.Q., learning disabilities, and behavioral  problems. Even children who appear healthy can have dangerous levels of lead in their body that lead to a numerous list of illnesses that we don’t have space to cover. Lead is  harmful to adults as well.  Even at low levels, it can lead to high blood pressure,  affect our bones and organs in both males and females and the fetus of pregnant women. Simply put, this is one bad heavy metal when it gets into our bodies.  (Interesting side note: There are some archeological studies that conclude that part of the reason for the fall of the “Roman Empire” was due to the use of lead pipes in their water supply and the taking of lead powder for medicinal purposes that caused the population a variety of illnesses, including birth defects and a lowering of intellect. )

 In normal hand to mouth activates such as eating, playing, or disturbing dust by normal movements [such as cleaning or vacuuming], if there is exposed lead paint within the environment, there is a good possibility of people having lead within their bodies.  When performing renovation activities such as sawing, sanding, brushing, burning, and demolition that disturb lead based painted surfaces, there is a strong risk to lead exposure if you haven’t taken the proper precautions.  If you had a packet of lead dust the size of a single packet of sugar, the amount contained can contaminate many rooms in a home with a enough lead to cause serious illness.     

 These regulations assume that all houses built before 1978 contain lead-based paint.  It is your responsibility to test, prove, and document its absence if you are disturbing 6 square feet within the interior of the house or 20 square feet of the exterior. The rules also require it for any activity that involves window replacement, demolition, or activities involving prohibitive practices within these smaller areas as well.

 After I posted my last article “ The New Regulatory Climate for D.I.Y. Home Remodelers “ the questions started coming in. To sum up the three most frequently asked questions:

• Do the practices required add on a lot of cost if I just hire a contractor to the job?  The simple answer, Yes. 
• Can homeowners learn how to follow these practices and can they do this work themselves? Answer, yes.
• Do the regulations apply to a homeowner  working on his own house?  The answer is no, but here is the catch and it’s a big one.

First, there is the health risk to themselves, family, children, friends, future buyer, and anyone that comes in the house during and after the work, without following the mandated practices.

Second, even when a trade contractor follows the prescribed practices, they must keep a record thru documentation about what and how the job was done. They are also required to retain those records for a period of time in their possession.  Keep in mind, even when you do a great job, in this litigious society, anyone can file a suit against anyone for lead poisoning that has been near or in the house. 

Even though under “The RRP Rule: Exclusions” [page 2-3 of their model training guide] it lists “Renovations performed by homeowners in their own homes”, here’s the rub as summed up with a discussion with a legal eagle. If you haven’t followed the prescribe methods and documented them in accordance to the rules and someone was in your house during or after, came to the front door or worked outside or bought your house and they sued you having found traces of lead in their body, the Eagle could have a tough time defending you.

 Health concerns over lead paint and the possibility of generating lead dust and contamination during painting and remodeling of projects in homes built before 1978 have created the enactment of strict methods of remediation and detailed record keeping by the Federal EPA and State governments. Compliance is not an option any longer for contractors, as it was when Congress passed the legislation just a short time ago, where under certain conditions a homeowner could opt out of these costly regulations. The EPA has recently removed this option.  Whether this was legal or not will eventually be settled in the courts.

 Hopefully at this point I have your attention. When contractors do work for you, they add on a significant cost to cover overhead and profit. If you are a reader of www.remodelingreports.com  or www.thediycoachusa.com,  you already understand what the costs are and why. The methods prescribed are tedious and time consuming, but only require a moderate level of skill and knowledge which are easily mastered.  A knowledgeable person who is certified in the requirements can cut down your learning curve substantially as your confidence and competence grows.  The cost savings can be dramatic in this area and make projects financially feasible for DIYers, that may not be the case when using contractors.

 Without going into a lot of detail, I will list below many of the subjects within “Lead Safety for Renovation, Repairs and Painting” that you will want to learn about. These subjects are the “Course Agenda” within the EPA’s “Certified Renovators Initial Training Course Student Manual:

1. Why Should I Be Concerned About Lead Paint
2. The Regulations
3. What To Do Before Beginning Work
4. Containing Dust During The Work
5. During the work [methods and practices]
6. Cleaning Activities and Checking Your Work
7. Recordkeeping
8. Training Non-certified Workers

Before beginning to read the manual, you should go to Appendix 3 (“Renovate Right:  Important Lead Hazard Information for Families, Child Care Provider and Schools”) and Appendix  5  (“Steps to Lead Safe Renovation, Repair and Painting”). These are copies within the training manual of the EPA Pamphlets that contractors are required to give to clients. They are  a great introduction to the subject as well as a motivator to get you to learn more.

The manual can be found by going to http://www.epa.gov/lead/pubs/epahudrrmodel.htm

I’m sure you understand the saying that a picture can be worth a 1000 words.  In this case, a good CD that teaches about the subject and visually demonstrates the methods by an expert, can be worth a whole text book plus it cuts the learning curve significantly.  I’ve been recommending to my clients a video titled “Lead Safe Work Practices For Employees of EPA Certified Renovators” with Francis Xavier “Rich” Finigan.  I purchased my copy recently thru http://www.check4lead.com for about $30.  It also contains an additional CD of forms to document your work. I feel that this was money well spent.  I use it to train my people, saving us both a lot of time.  It may also be available thru other websites.

 If you have an old house and plan to take on many projects over a period of time, you many consider taking the certification course similar to the one I took.  In New Jersey, it is often available through a state program at community or public colleges or private certified schools. It takes no more than a few days and normally runs a few hundred dollars. Not a bad way to go.

Since homeowners working on their own project are exempt under the regulations, and if you still agree with the reasoning of this article, there is another way to go. That way is to have a lead certified remodeling coach guide you through the How To until you reach a point that you are confident with your understanding and the methods.  I teach this in the prescribed method that I would  teach my own non-certified renovation workers. In addition, he should show you what he does in documenting the work. This can all be done right on the projects site.

Once you understand what’s involved, I think you will agree that ethical contractors who abide by the regulations, because of all of the health concerns for everyone, must add on significant cost when lead based paint is present. However, if you are physically able home owners with only rudimentary skills, your investigation may also conclude that you can handle this work along with your next project with some guidance from a knowledgeable person and save a bundle of dollars.

Wishing You Success On Your Next Project! – Coach Jerry

The New Regulatory Climate for D.I.Y. Home Remodelers

By Jerry R. Spumberg – The Do It Yourself Coach

Remodeling your home, even with professional guidance, is now more complicated. Building codes involving the structure have gotten stricter. They are structurally more demanding and now relate more than ever to specific local conditions of weather, soil bearing and seismographic activity .

Health concerns over lead paint and the possibility of generating lead dust and contamination during painting and remodeling of projects in homes built before 1978 have created the enactment of strict  methods of remediation and detailed record keeping by the Federal EPA and State Governments. Compliance is not an option any longer, as it was when Congress passed the legislation just a short time ago, where under certain conditions a homeowner could opt out of these costly regulations. The EPA has recently removed this option. Whether this was legal or not will eventually be settled in the courts.

And finally, among what I consider the big three, is a new energy code with two methods of compliance. The Prescriptive Approach [pre-specified] or the Trade Off Approach that requires the use of ResCheck Software to make sure the specifications chosen meet the overall performance requirements of your climate zone.  In October of 2010, about 80% of state and local code officials adopted the 2012 International Energy Conservation Code [IECC]. It was estimated that this code would have an expected energy savings of 30% over the 2006 code.

 

As building Code officials vote to replace the 2006 International Residential Building  Code’s energy chapter with the newer IECC code, what will it mean for the DIYer?  

The new code improves air tightness, increases window, exterior door and skylight efficiencies,  ups the required “R” [insulation] ratings while it saves electricity for lighting and energy losses from HVAC systems, hot water storage and piping. Each of the eight climate zones have their own requirements.  The good side of this, is that it makes sense for the long run for the environment and will save money in future energy costs for the owner. It requires the use of better methods, materials and products, all of which are more costly. The selection of the many choices in each of the categories  just mentioned and deciding what is best for you is now more time-consuming and difficult as you go through the process of setting objectives and making decisions to plan your project.  As part of the construction permitting process, these decisions are required to be made before construction begins and are specified with the submitted plans in order to receive a permit to build. Therefore, whereas in the past you could make many of these decisions throughout the building process, now you have to decide almost everything before the first shovel goes in the ground.  The DIYer will need an impartial professional, who is driven by their clients best interests, to help them develop a cost-effective project that meets the requirements of the codes and help them through the permitting process. The down side of this is that the upgrading will cost more up front.

 

EPA’s Lead Safety For  Renovations, Repair and Painting as it applies to one family homes as of April 22, 2010.

It’s important for you to know that if you live in a pre-1978 built home or child occupied facilities, the contractors  you hire for remodeling and painting must be certified and use lead-safe work practices during  renovations. The exclusions to this are:  (1) interior work disturbing less than 6 square feet, (2) exterior work disturbing less than 20 square feet with the exception of window replacement, demolition or prohibited practices.

 Renovations performed by homeowners in their own homes are excluded. However, this is a slippery slope.  Why?  The required practices are for the protection of your family’s health and the guests that visit your home. It is to protect the environment as a whole, but even more important to you is that part of the interior of your home and the outside area that is adjacent to it. Proper clean up and practices requires specialized tools and vacuum cleaners that are expensive and may not be worthwhile to own and unavailable to rent. 

 In addition, when you go to sell your home, a buyer will question and may even want to perform tests to confirm the home and the grounds have no contaminants. For all these reasons and many more, I suggest you hire someone with the knowledge and credentials to follow the practices or go to school yourself for certification if you decide to do it yourself.

For more information, go to EPA’s website and download the “Renovate Right” pamphlet.

 

In Conclusion:

When you add the new energy code, lead renovation practices in pre-1978 homes and the new structural requirements, the coordination of projects from conception to completion are now more important than ever. The regulative authorities have added requirements that are adding additional upfront costs to projects compared to projects built just a short time ago. Builders, general contractors and trade contractors are now considering the time and cost impact all this adds on in addition to their overhead, sales commissions and profit when pricing a job.

To sum it up, the professionals and the state and local building officials in the industry are engaged in a learning curve as they adjust to most of this and it will be even more difficult for a DIYer with less experience to go through all we mentioned and do what’s best for themselves.

Even with the new regulatory complexities, it may still make more sense financially than ever to become the developer of your own project. If you are willing to put in some time, consider hiring a Do It Yourself Coach for your next project. Visit us at WWW.TheDIYCoachUSA.com  to learn more about planning a project or WWW.RemodelingReports.com for more specific product and construction information in article form.  It’s free to download or copy.  Good luck on your next project.

May the Coach be with you,

                                                Coach Jerry

2011- New Year’s Questions Asked to the DIY Coach (Part 2 of 2)

By Jerry R. Spumberg, The DIY Coach

Introduction

In late December of 2010, I spoke before a business organization in Monmouth County, New Jersey and was asked many questions about remodeling, renovating, home improvement, and the investment opportunities in residential properties. This is the continuation of the answers to those questions. The questions below were sent to me before and after my talk. Many have come up in the past as well. I did not get to answer all of them when I spoke, but they deserve being answered and I would like to share those answers with you.  I want to thank those people for raising these questions. They relate to a rather innovative method and approach for property owners for updating existing or building new homes while eliminating the overhead and profit that the traditional construction industry builds in to prices.  

12. Does a homeowner need to have a licensed plumber and electrician if he is doing his own work?

The simple answer is no in New Jersey as long as the homeowner files for a permit if the work requires it and follows the local authority’s code requirements and inspection process. There are many simple repairs that do not require either of the before mentioned, but you should check with your building department to find out if yours does.

However, there is a lot more to this question than just the legal and municipal requirements. The most important question is about your skill and knowledge level being equal to the task. What you don’t know can burn down your house; it can also injure or kill someone, and that could be you. So make sure you know your limits or seek the advice of a professional. Some professionals like me are more than happy to teach you the hands on how. A simple thing like relighting a gas hot water heater when done wrong or hanging an electric ceiling fixture can blow up in your face or end up falling on someone’s head. What you do may even kill the next purchaser of your house. Know what you are doing or hire someone that does. You will sleep better for it.

13. Do you handle obtaining the building permits for your clients?

Yes! We have three ways that we work with clients.  One of them is: A Coach will work with you doing the parts of a project you don’t have the skills, knowledge, or tools for.  This often includes being involved in projects from the conception stage thru final completion. We guide (coach) our clients through all aspects.

14. Do you receive any percentage from the sub-contractors?

No! Our contract with our clients strictly forbids us from receiving commissions, gifts, and kickbacks of any form. In the industry, this type of behavior can be determined to be criminal. It is always unethical.

15. Do you screen the customer’s subcontractors in any way?

Yes! Whether the subcontractor is the customer’s or one we recommended, there is a trades contract that we give to the owner to supersede the subcontractor’s proposal. The client can then have an attorney review it for their needs and make any changes they wish. This is given to the subcontractor to fill out the required information such as registration or license, insurances required, federal and state identification, number of years in business, and referrals past and present. I also find out who their suppliers are. Either the client or I make the calls before the client signs the agreement.

16. When is the slowest time of the year?

I use to say the winter months of January and February, but that’s no longer true. Many people have gotten smarter and realize that this is a good time for planning a project as well as investigations into products. It’s also a great time to negotiate with suppliers and subcontractors.

17. How do you sell your concept?

We don’t sell it, we explain it. We have used the KISS principle in developing the business model – Keep It Super Simple. Everything is simple to understand and transparent, just like our website. Because it is so simple, people keep looking for a catch, but there is none. The website explains what we do, why we do it, the way we do it, and how we do it.

When I meet with a new client, I remain consistent with the website and answer all of their questions. My objective is to give them the best understanding of the options they have for their project that I can. We do not push to close by having them sign a contract. Instead, we give them a sample contract to examine and digest and call them a few days later to see if they have any more questions.

Our contract, which in simple English rather than legalize, does the same thing. Its’ most important aspect is to define and develop the relationship. We allow a client to terminate us at their discretion at any time. The benefits of hiring The DIY Coach are transparency and the possible significant cost savings are self-explanatory. I make sure the client becomes aware of the level of control they have over their projects as well as the responsibility they will assume before inking the deal.  The biggest question is the client’s willingness to spend the required time commitment that they themselves set.

18. What is your process for remodeling a kitchen with the homeowner(s) involved in some of the work?

The first thing to understand is that no matter what the project is, including kitchens, The DIY Coach’s concept custom fits every aspect of the construction process to the clients.

The first step is to help the client find out what they want and how much their target budget is. The next question is for us to learn their level of participation and in what areas they want to participate in, if any. Determinations are made as to what extent their needs may or may not be for an architect, kitchen designer, and permits. We help our clients develop specifications for everything that will go into the kitchen (such as cabinets, counter tops, appliances, flooring, lighting, and plumbing) and determine what trades will be needed.

The coach then works with the client to use the same process that builders use – competitive bidding. A Request For Proposal (RFP), which contains the specifications for products or services, is offered to several vendors in each category as a solicitation of cost. The selection of the vendor is then made based on price, reputation, reliability, and a track record of a reasonable number of years in business. At this point, a budget is put together that includes a contingency cost for the unforeseen. If the budget is acceptable to the client, a schedule is developed by questioning each vendor of their time requirements. Plans and permits are then submitted to local authorities and upon approval, the project can be scheduled to begin.

19. How do you find employees and subcontractors? What qualifications do they have?

Coaches fit into two categories. The first are project coaches. These people can be either male or female, have owned their own building or remodeling business, or worked as project managers. Experience and capability is what I look for. Age has no significance. I love working with people with decades of experience (like myself) who have seen most of the mistakes and can eliminate them before they become difficult to correct.  Think of them as cloned from three of my TV favorites: Tom Silver and Norm Abrams from “This Old House” and Mike Holmes from “Holmes on Homes”. They have a strong carpentry background and are very capable in other trades. These are hands on people! The trades they don’t perform, they understand. They are excellent at coordinating vendors and developing schedules and have terrific people skills. They own their own tools and know how to use them, but more important, they know how to teach clients what they need to know without making it tedious. The most important qualification is that they love what they do and will love being a Do It Yourself Coach.

The second category is specialty trade coaches. These too have years of experience, but only in one or two trades. Examples could be a tile setter, painter/wallpaper hanger, or a finishing carpenter. In some cases they may be a trades subcontractor or a person who is partially retired who enjoys working with and teaching DIYers on a one to one (or two) basis. They meet many of the requirements mentioned above.

One of the ways I find people, subcontractors, and suppliers is networking through the many relationships that I have in the industry and the continual development of new relationships. Past clients are also a source as well as a large circle of business friends outside my industry. As the company grows and the ever-changing economy brings highly skilled and experienced craftsperson’s back into the housing industry in need of full or part time work, The DIY Coach offers a unique cooperative and non-adversarial relationship for the coaches, our subcontractors, and our clients. As coaches or subcontractors who are treated as value members of the team, they find a lot more job satisfaction than working for a large box retailer or a traditional builder. In addition, they are encouraged to fully use and share their knowledge and experience with clients and all who form the team to construct a project.

Every DIY Coach and subcontractor fills out a application form with references and I personally interview each applicant. We also use our website to attract applicants.

20. What home improvements are the best investments for resale?

This is a question that people see answered on certain TV shows all the time, as if it’s simple to answer. In my opinion (as a builder and developer with over four decades of experience), I will tell you that the answer is not simple because we are asking it from an investment prospective. To understand this you must define return on investment (ROI). I define it from a business point of view as developing greater value upon selling then spent on improvements, including the value of my time. When you spend money on your own home with money that you saved or against equity that you borrowed, it is important to gain greater value than you spend if you consider your home a financial asset. Under present tax law, if you sell your home after living in it two years or more, there is no income tax paid. If you’re an investor, you will be subject to a capital gains tax that is usually less than income tax.

The first step in making any determination has to be a realistic assessment of what the property would have to be priced at, as it is, to sell in thirty to sixty days.  This is not easy to do, even for me. I do my research about what similar houses in the same condition that are up for sale are priced at. I also want to know how many there are on the market and how many of these have sold over the last three months, six months, and a year. This is the absorption rate.  It tells me the demand in this price range and what the price should be. I then talk to several top realtors who have sold twenty or more houses in the last year and ask them for a realistic price to sell in thirty to sixty days. I then take into consideration the monthly increase or decrease percentage in the cost of housing and apply it to the amount of time the remodeling projects will take. I now have a base to judge value added for any project.

The simplest remodeling project, if the house is sound, is a good paint job. In order to paint you must know how to perform the most difficult part, which is the preparation and repair work under the areas to be painted as well as what colors most of the buying market wants.

Cleaning up the landscaping and concentrating on curb appeal will get customers into the house, but won’t sell it if the kitchen and bathrooms don’t appeal to them. How to approach this is difficult to cover in a short answer, so I won’t. I only mentioned this as a consideration. When investors buy houses that are out of date, most will lower their offers to reflect the cost of updating these areas. Again, what work you will do should depend on the input you get from professional realtors and if the project adds more dollars then you spend.

If you hire a general contractor, it is doubtful that you will get more money back than you spend. Visit our Web site http://www.thediycoachusa.com and click on “9 Home Improvement Facts That Can Save You A Bundle” and to the left you will find “Useful Links and Tools”. This will lead you to research studies and professional trade articles that will bear this out. However if you do it yourself with some professional guidance, you can actually make money thru remodeling. If you have an experienced family member or friend that works in the industry that can help you, that’s fine. If not, employ an expert on an hourly as-needed basis (such as The Do It Yourself Coach, LLC.) to advise and work with you to achieve your goals.

21. When a homeowner takes on a do it yourself project and finds it is too much for them to finish in the middle of the project, would you take it over as a general contractor?

No! Our main objective is to provide the client with the most cost effective method of completing his project. It is never our intention to convert our relationship to become that of a general contractor that charges overhead and profit. The greatest amount of savings for the homeowner comes from taking on the administrative role and eliminating a general contractor’s markup. Depending on what is most cost effective for the owner, we will use competitive bidding to hire subcontractors for each phase of the project the owner needs to complete or work side by side with the owner and temporary labor that we will help him hire. In some cases, the best description of us is to be known as the owners hired project manager who will also perform manual work on the project. The exception to performing the manual labor role would be if the work could be done more effective and for less cost by subcontracting out parts to individual trades.

It would be very easy for me under certain circumstances to convert a project to a general contractor’s relationship because I have previously owned and operated several building businesses. However, The guidelines and policies that have I have set for The Do It Yourself Coach, LLC would make it unethical to change the relationship because it would not be in the best interests of the homeowner.

If a owner decides to abandon a part of the project that he has planned to do (for example painting), we will step in upon the client’s direction.  We will request bids from several subcontractors to complete the remaining tasks.  This would be compared to hiring hourly works that the client pays direct, that I would work with or just supervise as needed. This would still eliminate the general contractor’s markup. The only loss of savings would be the client’s contribution of their labor.

Learn more about how to improve and add more value than you spend by exploring www.thediycoachusa.com and www.remodelingreports.com. Read the blog articles and learn some of the things that professionals won’t tell you. Link to industry studies that will tell you the return on the money you spend when hiring a General Contractor. Read articles of the margins that the industry recommends  to be built into their prices. Become informed so you can choose the direction you want to take for your next project wisely. 

 YOU TO CAN DO IT FOR YOURSELF, BUT YOU DON’T HAVE TO DO IT BY YOURSELF!

 May the Coach be with you,
 Jerry R. Spumberg

 

2011- New Year’s Questions Asked to the DIY Coach (Part 1 of 2)

By Jerry R. Spumberg, The DIY Coach

Introduction

In late December of 2010, I spoke before a business organization in Monmouth County, New Jersey and was asked many questions about remodeling, renovating, home improvement, and the investment opportunities in residential properties. The questions below were sent to me before and after my talk. Many have come up in the past as well. I did not get to answer all of them when I spoke, but they deserve being answered and I would like to share those answers with you.  I want to thank those people for raising these questions. They relate to a rather innovative method and approach for property owners for updating existing or building new homes while eliminating the overhead and profit that the traditional construction industry builds in to prices.

1. What is the biggest size project you will take on?

As of yet, we have not refused any project for being too large (or too small) in the residential or light commercial/retail category. The larger the project normally means I’m working less with tools and have a greater concentration on the construction management aspects (from conception to completion). Larger projects have larger budgets. This means that concentrating and overseeing the development of cost effective and efficient design with specifications that meet the client objectives becomes the most important criteria; that’s because of the amount of the client’s money at stake. The interdependency and balancing of the above will be reflected in the projects budget.

2. Please explain the Do-It-Yourself segment of what you do.  How involved is the homeowner?

This is a great question with a long answer that I could write a book about. Instead, I will try to summarize a few general concepts. The first of which are the requirements that a client needs to meet for our program. They must be willing to take on the administrative role or assign it to someone else other than just us. They must be willing to define their role in the project and understand the collaborative effort that our process requires. If they will become involved in actual physical tasks, they will need to commit to performing in a timely manner. Our role as a Coach is that of working with you to facilitate the parts of the project that you don’t have the skills, knowledge, or tools for.  We are more like your employee and you are the developer (our boss) of your own project. To find out more about this, explore our website and the articles on the blog about a Coach.

3. What is the minimum skill level for a Do-It-Yourselfer?

I’m assuming that this question relates to being physically active in the labor itself.  I have worked with people who have never picked up a paintbrush or hammer. Beginners are fine as long as you have patience with yourself and others and are prepared for some hard work. Skills can be taught to most people, but everyone learns at a different pace. The only requirements that are important are a willingness to learn, the time required for us to teach them, and for them to participate. The rest we know and want to share with our clients.

If the question is aimed at the business and administrative side, a little common sense, some easily learned bookkeeping skills, an eye to detail, and the desire to learn are required.

4. What are the steps in the DIY Coach Process?

The components of a successful project start with a dedication to professionally manage any project from its early conception to its completion. Develop clear and concise project objectives and goals into construction plans, specifications, and costs thru the right team to match the project. For more information, visit the planning portion of our website.  

5. Does bringing in a coach increase the price of building a home?

If you compare the cost of hiring a coach (the term as defined by my company) to using general contractor or builder, it is much less. Builders and general contractors charge a mark-up for overhead and profit plus the cost of the onsite project manager or supervisor. If it is a small company where the owner directly supervises the project, he usually builds in his time as a part of the cost. For more information please visit our web site http://www.thediycoachusa.com and click on “9 Home Improvement Facts That Can Save You A Bundle”. To the left are commercial trade magazine’s articles and studies under “Useful Links and Tools” that will give you an idea of what these costs are. The only cost you pay with a coach is that of a project manager on an hourly as-needed bases. You become the developer and are taught to administer your own project.

If you are not a seasoned professional in the construction industry, it is doubtful that you will purchase the various elements of the project (called the buyout) as well as an experienced person, but you can with help. A successful builder, who has become a remodeling coach, could not have become successful unless he had a reputation for honesty. A smart builder continually develops sources for labor and materials, understands how to negotiate in good faith with vendors, and has a reputation for paying his bills. After all, if you were a vendor, would you give your best prices to a person that could provided you with only one sale or  to a professional that offers the additional opportunity for future sales as well? 

 Do not be fooled by clubs that charge high membership fees, delivery charges, and service fees that offer wholesale prices. A recent nonprofit consumer magazine stated that these franchises “lack price transparency” and “You can’t return items”. They have limited showrooms of which you select products from catalogs. There are additional fees that you are responsible for, such as a six percent handling fees, shipping fees from the wholesale distributor to the local center, and additional fees to actually get your new stuff to you house.  “There is no cancelation of your membership or a refund” if you’re unhappy after you join and want to quit.

The fact is that an experienced DIY Coach who has developed business relationships with many competing vendors may even be buying from some of the same sources that these buying clubs do. With a Coach’s advice, you can buy at club’s prices or better without all the added cost.  I’ve rarely paid a building material supplier a delivery fee. My clients also have a much larger choice of vendors and products that  include some companies they personally know, companies that  previously did business with myself or The DIY Coach’s clients, and others that are constantly approaching us for business. Read other articles on our blog such as: “Part IV – What A Coach Should Be Able To Do For You.”  A DIY Coach will save you money by helping you buy right.

6. Regarding projects, when is it best to hire a builder (general contractor)?

There are many people who do not have the desire to be involved with anything more than picking selections, approving the design, and entering into a single contract. Price and return on investment are relatively unimportant. They make a down payment and stage payments until the project is finished. They want the least involvement possible. They will visit the project site more out of curiosity of how far the project has come, rather than to be involved or even participate in the selection of vendors or participating in some of the work. For these clients, where cost is not as important as the time that would be required of them to spend on administration and budget development, a reliable and capable general contractor is the best choice.  A Coach relationship is not for every client.

7. What is the biggest difference between a Do It Yourself Remodeling Coach and a General Contractor with regard to a home improvement project or an addition?

When a general contractor enters into a contract with a property owner, it is binding on all parties. In a legal sense, if a dispute arises the parties are adversaries. The general contractor feels he is entitled to the money spent for labor and materials plus his overhead and profit. The owner feels he is entitled to the project and everything that should be included in the price. Most disputes arise because of what may be unseen until the project is underway, the costs of extras or changes, and the quality of work. As you can see from that mentioned above, the two parties come from very opposite directions for the most part.  One builds and deliveries a product, the other pays money to own it.

The building or home improvement coach has a relationship with a homeowner that is quite different. The DIY Coach’s relationship is that of a trusted employee who works for the owner and becomes his own project developer on an hourly as-needed basis. This building expert can be terminated at any time at the homeowner’s discretion, with or without reason. There is no markup, only the agreed upon hourly pay that is due the coach. The coach’s objective is to achieve what is directed by his client. To learn more about what a coach should be, read our five part series about coaches on this blog or at http://www.remodelingreports.com.

8. I watch all those shows on house flipping……Are they realistic?

They are as realistic as they can be when they compress the time for the project in a half hour show. The viewer is often not aware of how long the project really took as well as many things you didn’t see. Be aware that many of these episodes may be years old and under different market conditions than the present. There are many professional investors who because of their knowledge of the market and remodeling can make money in any market, but there are also many amateurs who lose their shirt.   

9. Do you work with investors or people who want to flip houses?

Yes! However, I would rather not limit these people to just flipping a house (buying, fixing it up, and then selling). Flipping usually results in paying straight income tax, where the government takes a substantial bite out of the profits. There are many ways to redevelop properties that can substantially increase you net profits by paying less taxes and also can develop income. Properties when developed, after considering the tax implications, can be qualified for a capital gains or real estate (exchange) 1031 situation.  In some cases, clients are looking to develop a revenue stream from renting.  We can work with people in many areas of real estate investment and do.

10. Do you become involved in real estate investment partnerships and if you do, what do you expect from partners?

I look for partners that have a reputation for integrity, directness, and can add to the partnership. It goes without saying that credit worthiness and the ability to invest in the project are important. Even though they may not be involved in the day-to-day activities, I look for them to participate during investor meetings, have a desire to volunteer for assignments, and sometimes take on the administrative role. Every partnership is different, so I don’t have a cookie cutter design. It’s determined with the partner(s). The amount of money involved differs for every project as well as the financial structure among the partners.

11. What jobs have you been involved with over the past few months?

A few of them have been simple plumbing repairs, interior trim work, fixing doors that don’t close, repairing cabinets, building a book case, water infiltration and moisture solutions, and entry door replacement. Larger projects include bathroom and kitchen remodeling within the present space, finish basements, and interior redesign of space. Our largest projects include a major home reconfiguration and expansion; a kitchen/great room addition with a new elevation is going into the design stage and a bathroom/kitchen project is being readied.

The remainder of the questions will be answered in my next article (Part 2).

 

Learn more about how to improve and add more value than you spend by exploring www.thediycoachusa.com and www.remodelingreports.com. Read the blog articles and learn some of the things that professionals won’t tell you. Link to industry studies that will tell you the return on the money you spend when hiring a General Contractor. Read articles of the margins that the industry recommends  to be built into their prices. Become informed so you can choose the direction you want to take for your next project wisely.

YOU TO CAN DO IT FOR YOURSELF, BUT YOU DON’T HAVE TO DO IT BY YOURSELF!

May the Coach be with you,
Jerry R. Spumberg